Understand

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Like Istanbul, Rome and Seattle, Lisbon is built on seven hills.

The sparkling new Lisboa Ask Me Centre (Pç. do Comércio, 21 0312815, open 09:00 - 20:00 daily) will help you find accommodation and is happy to dispense advice, maps and brochures. Smaller Ask Me Lisboa kiosks are dotted about the Rossio district and airport and their multilingual staff also have maps and brochures.

The Lisboa Card, which can be purchased from tourist information outlets, offers free use of all public transport in the city and free or reduced price tickets to many museums, galleries and tourist attractions. They can be purchased in 24 hour (adult / child: €14.85 / €7.50), 48 hour (€25.50 / €12.75) and 72 hour (€31.00 / €15.50) denominations. They are not very good value unless you plan to visit a lot of museums.

Eat

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Eat dinner out one night at a traditional Portuguese restaurant at the Bairro Alto, preferably one that has traditional fado music.

Most restaurant are very small, family run and generally cheap. Almost everyone has a sheet on the door with the "pratos do dia" (dishes of the day) written on. These are usually cheaper and fresher, and unless you're looking for something specific, they're the right choice.
During the dinner probably the waiter will bring you some unrequested dishes: as those are not free, feel free not to touch them and they will not be charged on your bill.

If it's traditional Portuguese that you're after, then the area of Alfama is the place to go. There, you have plenty of choice, with a street full of restaurants. Try the seafood rice (arroz de marisco).

Try the magnificent pastéis de nata at any pastelaria or the even better, Pastéis de Belém next to the Jerónimos Monastery in Belém. Have them warm and profusely showered in cinnamon... Huummmm

Budget

At Café Buenos Aires, at No. 31 you can find a good and selected combination of cheap and mid range dishes. During New Year's Eve they have a set for the night that will delight you. The owners are very friendly and speak Spanish, as well as English and Portuguese.

Mid-range
Docas

Fabulous seafood with a great view of the Tejo river and the Ponte de 25 Abril. Excellent service and really fresh food. Don't miss the tamboril (monkfish) with the tomato and asparagus sauce. Really worth the effort to get there, the Docas area is fairly newly developed, and the railway line makes it hard to find a way across the main road, but with determination it's a great spot to go to. It's one of a number of restaurants of varying types along this stretch of the quayside, but it stands out for quality and value. Check it out before it gets 'trendy'. (added 12/04/07)

Bairro Alto

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