Understand

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Somerville has managed to hold onto its blue-collar roots while at the same time gentrifying. It is still the most densely populated city in New England, so visitors will find lots of purely residential territory between the "fun" areas: Davis Square, Porter Square, and Powderhouse Square (the location of Tufts University). Other notable neighborhoods include Union Square and Winter Hill, erstwhile home of the "Winter Hill Gang", the organized crime group headed by Whitey Bulger in the 1960's and 1970's.

Eat

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Somerville is home to many restaurants, from low-priced pizza and ethnic finds to elegant dining.

Anna's Taqueria, 236 Elm St. (Davis Sq), Phone: +1 617-666-3900. Fast Mexican food, much better than Taco Bell. People seem divided on Anna's, some love it, some hate it.

Gargoyle's on the Square, 219 Elm St. (Davis Sq), Phone: +1 617-776-5300, . French-influenced New American cuisine. One of the fancier places in Somerville.

Mama Lisa's Pizza, 312 Broadway (Winter Hill), Phone: +1 617-623-9463. Good pizza, fantastic ham & cheese calzones, but calzones are only made some days of the week so call to verify.

O'Naturals, 187 Elm St., (Davis Square). Phone: +1 617-666-2233, . Naturals foods for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Free wireless internet access.

Redbones, 55 Chester St. (Davis Sq), Phone: +1 617-628-2200, . Excellent BBQ and great selection of microbrewed beers.

R.F. O'Sullivan and Son, 282 Beacon St (Near Porter Sq.). Phone: +1 617-492-7773, . Outstanding burgers and their fries and onion rings are excellent.

Rudy's Cafe, 248 Holland St. (Teele Sq), Phone: +1 617-623-9201. Good Tex-Mex food, and good Tequila.

Taqueria La Mexicana, 247 Washington St., (Union Sq), Phone: +1 617-776-5232, . Friendly neighborhood taqueria, West Coast style. Burritos, tacos, tamales, everything cheap.

Tu Y Yo Mexican Fonda, 858 Broadway, Phone: +1 617-623-5411, . Excellent authentic Mexican food. This is not the typical Mexican restaurant; the food is authentic and you won't find burritos here.

Davis Square, This is a great late-night summer hangout, especially given that J.P. Licks is here. (J.P. Licks is a trendy local ice cream shop, also seen on Newbury Street in Boston.) It's right on the Red Line, and also a major bus transfer point. Tons of college folk linger in the brick plaza. The Somerville Theatre doubles as a second-run movie house and music venue. Davis Square has several coffeehouses that draw people day and night.

Diesel Cafe, 257 Elm St, Phone: +1 617-629-8717, . Coffee and light dining, winner of several local awards.

The Someday Cafe, 51 Davis Sq., Phone: +1 617-623-3323, . Featured in a song by Jim's Big Ego. Note: Sadly, the Someday closed its doors (Sept. 2006) and has not reopened in its new location. There will soon be a Mr. Crepe in this location.

Bhoja Café, 235 Elm St., Phone: +1 617-440-6011. Coffee, sandwiches, fancy pastries and Tibetan specialties.

Johnny D's, 17 Holland St. (Davis Square), Phone: +1 617-776-2004, . M-F 12:30PM-1AM; Sa-Su 9AM-1AM. Live bands and good food.

Teele Square, Just up the street from Davis Square (heading west) it has a lot to offer...