Understand

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Founded only in 1857 as a tin mining outpost, Kuala Lumpur is fairly new as far as Malaysian cities go and lacks the rich history of George Town or Malacca. After rough early years marked by gang fighting, Kuala Lumpur started to prosper and was made capital of the Federated Malay States in 1896. Malaysia's independence was declared in 1957 in front of huge crowds at what was later named Stadium Merdeka (Independence Stadium), and Kuala Lumpur continued as the new nation's capital. The economic boom of the 1990s brought KL the standard trappings of a modern city, bristling with skyscrapers and modern transportation systems. Like most of Malaysia's big cities, about 55% of Kuala Lumpur's population is of Malaysian Chinese descent.

Orientation

Kuala Lumpur is a fairly sprawling city for its size. For many visitors the center of the city lies in the Golden Triangle, between Jalan Sultan Ismail, Jalan Bukit Bintang, Jalan Pudu, Jalan Tun Perak and Jalan Ampang: this is where most of the city's shopping malls, five-star hotels and trendiest nightspots are, and the Kuala Lumpur City Center (KLCC) development home to the famous Petronas Twin Towers is at the northern edge. But the traditional core of the city lies more to the south, where Merdeka Square has many of KL's best-preserved colonial buildings and Chinatown bustles with activity late into the night. Further south yet, the suburb of Bangsar is a popular restaurant and clubbing district.

Eat

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The full panoply of Malaysian and Singaporean cuisine is available in Kuala Lumpur. Kuala Lumpur is particularly well known for dark Klang-style bak kut teh, nasi lemak and Ampang yong tau foo.

Budget

Head to Jalan Petaling anytime to sample cheap and tasty Chinese hawker fare. Pick any popular stall and try it out; there are particularly many bak kut teh joints around here. Jalan Alor off Bukit Bintang is another hawker center especially in the evening hours. The entire street is jammed on both sides with hawker stalls and restaurants (mainly Chinese) some of them open all night. Most places offers menus with photos of the dishes. Watch out if you order from the sit-down restaurants, as both areas have become somewhat touristy and prices can be a little high for hawker fare.

Raju's, Jalan Chantek, Petaling Jaya. Great Roti Canai!

Al-Esfan, Berjaya Plaza, Jalan Imbi (Monorail Imbi). 24-hour mamak joint offering rice, breads, curries, dips, tandoori chicken, noodles and even pizza (at least in name). Order what you will from any stall, they'll tally your purchases on a chit and you pay when you leave. Roti canai 80 sen/piece, a plate of rice with three curries under RM5.

Foong Foong Yong Tau Foo, Pekan Ampang (Star Ampang station, turn right onto main street, turn right at police station and walk for 15 minutes to end of street). Location: 3°8'39.86"N ; 101°45'47.69"E. One of three adjacent places competing for the title of The Original Ampang yong tau foo, a Hakka Chinese dish consisting of large pieces...