Cities
Understand
Saipan is 23 km (14 mi) long and 8 km (5 mi) wide. The best beaches and most populated areas are on the western and southern coasts, with the north and east being rugged and mountainous.
Many Chamorros on Saipan consider their culture more intact than on Guam, and the U.S. Military has no permanent presence on Saipan as it does on Guam. Therefore, comparisons between the two islands should take this into account. Furthermore, Chamorros on Saipan and throughout the CNMI still primarily speak Chamorro at home, while the same isn't true of Guam. Furthermore, while the differences between a commonwealth (as in the CNMI) and a territory (as in Guam) may not appear to be great (especially to a mainland US citizen), Saipan should not be referred to as a territory when speaking to a local. Finally, while the population of the CNMI, as on Guam, are US citizens and proud to be recognized as such, their independence is equally important.
Talk
While English is the official language, relatively few people on Saipan speak English as their first language. Nevertheless, nearly everybody does speak English (and a smattering of Japanese), though with much more of an accent than on Guam. Most locals speak Chamorro, Carolinian or another of the Micronesian languages at home. The majority of people living on Saipan are overseas contract labor, however. These people come mostly from Philippines (travel, diving and entertainment), Bangladesh, China (clothing manufacture) and Taiwan. Furthermore, Korean, Japanese and (recently) Russian tourists make these languages fairly prevalent as well.
Most hotels are geared toward a particular language/nationality such as Japanese or Korean, which represent most of the tourism. A notable exception is Pacific Islands Club, which is geared toward a multilingual/multinationial clientele. Likewise, most of the SCUBA shops are geared toward Japanese or Korean tourism, though the heavy reliance on Philippine dive staff ensures that many will also be able to handle English-speaking customers.
Get in
By plane
Saipan International Airport (SPN) is located in the southeast corner of the island. Direct flights are available from Tokyo and Nagoya (via Northwest), Seoul (via Korean Air and Asiana), and the nearby islands of Guam, Tinian, and Rota.
US travelers require passports and must pass through customs, as Saipan and the CNMI are considered international locations.
Get around
There is little public transport as such, excluding shuttle buses running between larger towns.
By bus
There is no public bus service on Saipan, but on Saipan PDI and other companies run a shopping shuttle bus to and from the Duty Free mall (DFS Galleria) in Garapan. DFS also has their own free shuttle from most of the major hotels.
By taxi
Taxis on Saipan are expensive but plentiful, however the only place they are allowed to pick up or drop off passengers is at the airport or a hotel, and sometimes at DFS. There is also a large network of illegal taxis run by Chinese and Korean immigrants, that will take you anywhere for less than $5.00. For some Saipan residents this is their only means of transportation.
Because Saipan is so small, taxis from the airport to the main hotel area of Garapan can run upwards of $25-30, so plan ahead by arranging transportation through your hotel, which often charge $10 per person flat rate.
By car
Car rental is a good option for getting off the beaten track, as roads are generally quite good. Most car rental offices are either at the airport or at major tourist hotels; some offer a free pick up and drop off service.
By moped
Mopeds can be rented for about $20, though roads are very dark at night and bugs predominate after dusk. Therefore, consider mopeds for day-tripping only, as drivers tend not to give heed to mopeds or bicyclists throughout the CNMI or Guam.
See
Saipan, Guam, and many other islands of the Marianas were all important battle sites during WWII, and many Japanese bunkers and armaments still exist on these islands. These sites are managed by the National Park Service under the "War in the Pacific" Parks designation. Saipan is fairly small and by renting a car or moped, it is easy to drive around the island and take in the natural splendor, as well as visit a number of parks. Scuba diving is also popular, and the underwater world should definitely be seen.
Do
are deservedly the most popular activities here among western tourists, though gambling and karaoke/hostess bars are most popular among Korean businessmen, as well as some Japanese travelers. Garapan is coastally located, so other watersports abound as well. For scuba divers, the term "Fun Dive" is used for those who have already been certified and just want to recreational dive, while "Taiken dive" is used to designate first-time divers that take classes on Saipan. The same is true for the rest of the CNMI and somewhat so for Guam. While boat dives are available, you can still drive to some awesome dive sights, like Grotto. A cavern dive to open ocean is great. If you go outside, you will need a guide. Very easy to get turned around outside and loose track of the tunnel back in.
Get tanks, gear or Air fills at "Dive Saipan", next to the McDonald's - Mobil Gas station in south Garapan. "Dive Saipan" (Korean owned - Mr. Kim) and "Speedy Tertle" (further south, Russian owned - ask for Sasha, Eric or Dale) cater to Western and Russian tourists, as well as other nationalities and are "local" friendly.
For lengthy descriptions of individual dive sites in Saipan, see WikiTravel's Dive Sites of Saipan page.
You may also want to check out one or more of the 5 golf courses. Two were designed by Greg Norman, one by Larry Nelson and another by Graham Marsh. The other course is considered a "local" course. There is also a 9 hole course that is great for beginners.
The Saipan Hash House Harriers meet every Saturday at 3:30 p.m. at the Bank of Guam parking lot in Garapan to run, hike, jog, climb and otherwise trek through jungle, swamps, mountains, and other terrain. It's usually a great way to meet people and see a side of island life you might not catch otherwise.
For some adventure check out Marianas Trekking at the Mariana Resort and Spa, they offer Mountain Bike Tours, ATV Tours, and Kayak Tours and all of it is done completely first rate. The guides are super friendly, the equipment is good, and the fun factor and local knowledge is definitely better than anything you could do on your own. It was our best day of vacation.
Buy
Duty Free Galleria, in the center of Garapan, has the top name brands and fashions available for high prices (but supposedly lower rates than in Tokyo). Locally made crafts are available in some stores on the islands, but check first to make sure the items were not manufactured in the Philippines, Thailand, or Indonesia.
There is a tiny branch of Bestseller Books, packed full of the latest titles as well as magazines and travel guides, in the Joeten Susupe shopping center. Music And, further south on Beach Road, carries discs by local musicians. Blockbuster Video has a branch in the Town House shopping center.
One of the classic adventures on island is a bike tour done by Marianas Trekking up on the North Coast. The guides take you up by van to the top of Suicide Cliff and then you can ride down, with stops at all of the historical sites, and a snorkeling stop at the Blue Grotto. The tour breaks for lunch at Mariana Beach and ends at the Mandi Asian Spa. It is a treat.
Eat
Many nice bakeries exist in and around Garapan and local breakfast places are within walking distance of the main hotel area. Seafood is understandably very fresh.
Hard Rock Cafe, Tony Roma's, McDonald's, KFC, Pizza Hut, Subway, and the Filipino hamburger chain Jollibee are all represented on Saipan. Vegetarian options are possible to find as well. For self-catering options, try one of the Joeten supermarkets for fruits and vegetables, some locally grown.
Drink
Karaoke/Hostess Bars abound in Garapan, as do Gambling Casinos, all of which allow ample drinking opportunities if one is so inclined.
Sleep
Most of Saipan's accommodation caters to package tourists. Rates are steep during Japanese holiday seasons but equally steeply discounted outside them. Internet bookings can regularly find rates below $60 per night, depending on the season.
Budget
Mid-range
Splurge
Contact
Many hotels and restaurants on Saipan now offer free wireless internet access to customers that bring their own laptops, including Coffee Care, Wild Bill's in Garapan, Java Joe's in Dandan, and Dai-Ichi Hotel in Garapan.
Get out
Saipan (IPA: saɪ'pæn], , or ['saɪpæn in English) is the largest island and capital of the United States Commonwealth of the Northern Mariana Islands (CNMI), a chain of 15 tropical islands belonging to the Marianas archipelago in the western Pacific Ocean (15°10’51”N, 145°45’21”E) with a total area of 115.39 km² (44.55 sq mi). The 2000 census population was 62,392.
Located at latitude of 15.25° north and longitude of 145.75° east, about 200 km (120 mi) north of Guam, Saipan is about 20 km (12.5 mi) long and 9 km (5.5 mi) wide. It is a popular tourist destination in the Pacific.
The western side of the island is lined with sandy beaches and an offshore coral reef which creates a large lagoon. The eastern shore is composed primarily of rugged rocky cliffs and a reef. Its highest point is a limestone covered mountain called Mount Tapochau at 474 m (1,554 ft). Many people consider Mount Tapochau to be an extinct volcano, but is in fact a limestone formation. To the north of Mount Tapochau towards Banzai Cliff is a ridge of hills. Mount Achugao, situated about 2 miles North, has been interpreted to be a remnant of a stratified composite volcanic cone whose Eocene center was not far north of the present peak.
Besides English, the indigenous Chamoru language is spoken by approximately 19 percent of the inhabitants. The current governor of the CNMI is Benigno Fitial, who is the successor of Juan Babauta.
History
Saipan, along with neighboring Guam, Rota/Luta, Tinian, and to a lesser extent smaller islands northward, was first inhabited around 2000 B.C.E.
The Spanish were the first Europeans to encounter the Taotaomonas, currently known as Chamorros, and eventually annexed Saipan as part of its claim to the Mariana Islands. Chamorros are a mix of Taotaomona and Spanish blood. Around 1815, many Carolinians from Satawal (squatters) settled Saipan during a period when the Chamorro were imprisoned on Guam, which resulted in a significant loss of land and rights for the Chamorro natives. Germany rule began in 1899 and lasted until 1914, when the Empire of Japan took over the island under a League of Nations mandate. The Japanese developed both fishing and sugar industries, and in the 1930s garrisoned Saipan heavily, resulting in nearly 30,000 troops on the island by 1941.
On June 15, 1944 during World War II, U.S. Marines landed on the beaches of the southwestern side of the island, and spent more than three weeks fighting the battle of Saipan to secure it from the Japanese, an event which was dramatized in John Woo's 2002 film "Windtalkers." It should be noted, however, that the movie was not filmed on Saipan and does not accurately reflect the island at that time. For instance Garapan, which was its de facto capital during that period of the Japanese era is portrayed as a rural farming community, when in fact it was a fairly large town. Garapan is currently still the largest village and the center of the tourism industry on the island.
The CNMI joined the United States in November 1986. During negotiations, it was suggested by the USA that the CNMI be exempted from certain federal laws, including some concerning labor and immigration. The CNMI negotiation team and the USA agreed to this. As a result, dozens of hotels opened and tourism became the island's main economic engine. Garment factories which employed thousands of alien workers also opened. As of November 2006, ten remain in existence. The working conditions and treatment experienced by employees in these factories have been the subject of controversy and criticism (see below). They supply the U.S. market with low cost garments exempt from US tariffs, and goods manufactured in U.S. Commonwealths and Territories, including Saipan, may be labeled "Made in the USA". However, since 2002, many if not most are now labeled "Made in CNMI, USA" or "Made in Northern Mariana Islands, USA".
Agriculture and flora
Undeveloped areas on the island are covered with sword grass meadows and dense, dry-forest jungle known as Tangan-Tangan. Coconuts, papayas, and Thai hot peppers — locally called "Donne Sali" or "Boonie Peppers" — are among the fruits that grow wild. Mango, taro root, and bananas are a few of the many foods cultivated by local families and farmers. Sportfishing is excellent offshore, with numerous small boats catching tuna, wahoo, billfish and many other species.
Music
Music on Saipan can generally be broken down into three branches- Local, Mainland American and Asian. Local consists of Chamorro, Carolinian and Micronesian traditional music and song, often with traditional dance for many occasions. Mainland American is many of the same varieties that can be found on U.S. radio; and Asian consists of Japanese, Korean, Thai and Philippine music among others.
Transportation
Travel to and from the island is available from several airlines via Saipan International Airport. A ferry also operates between Saipan and its smaller neighboring island 5 miles to the south, Tinian. Taxis are available. There is no public transportation system.
Economy
Tourism has long been a vital source of the island's revenue, although the industry has suffered badly ever since the occurrence in the mid-late 1990s of the Asian Economic Crisis, which increased the CNMI's need to rely on its U.S. government subsidies and the foreign-owned and operated garment industry in order to help prevent economic collapse. Some major airlines have since ceased service to the island. Many internationally-known businesses operate on Saipan, particularly in Garapan--e.g. The Hyatt Hotel, shopping boutiques Chanel, Christian Dior, and Gucci, and The Hard Rock Cafe to name a few. However, many more including the La Fiesta shopping mall and Le Bon Marche among others eventually closed in the wake of the economic crisis. Other activities available to visitors include skydiving, scuba diving, golf and athletic competitions such as Xterra and other triathlons.
Controversy
Exemptions granted from federal regulation
In 2005–2006, the issue of immigration and labor practices on Saipan was brought up during the American political scandals of Congressman Tom DeLay and lobbyist Jack Abramoff, who visited the island on numerous occasions. Ms. magazine has followed the issue and published a major expose in their Spring 2006 article "Paradise Lost: Greed, Sex Slavery, Forced Abortion and Right-Wing Moralists"
In January 1999, a coalition of U.S.-based lawyers and other groups (many of whom were losing business to the Saipan industry) and labor unions began a class action lawsuit on behalf of around 30,000 garment-industry workers who felt they may have been mistreated. The lawsuit prevailed and a verdict was awarded to the workers. Most of the money went to the lawyers who charged exorbitant fees, some of which were struck out, even chastised by Saipan Federal Judge Alex R. Munson. The lawyers took so much of the funds that each worker received less than $200.
On February 8, 2007, testimony was received at the United States Senate Committee on Energy and Natural Resources on the matter of federalizing CNMI labor and immigration. Secretary of Insular Affairs David B. Cohen has warned the CNMI to expect the federalizing measures in the very near future. What is generally unknown is that during the compact talks, the USA suggested that the CNMI have control of its immigration and minimum wage so that its economy could be self-sustaining. The CNMI receives very little federal monies in comparison to the U.S. Virgin Islands, Guam or American Samoa, whose economies depend highly on federal handouts.
Other local issues
Despite an annual rainfall of 80-100", the Commonwealth Utilities Corporation (CUC), the local government-run water utility company on Saipan, is unable to deliver 24-hour-a-day potable water to its customers in certain areas. As a result, several large hotels use reverse osmosis to produce fresh water for their customers. In addition, most homes and small businesses augment the sporadic and sometimes brackish water provided by CUC with rainwater collected and stored in cisterns.
Saipan also has a place in many Irish people's minds, after "The Saipan Incident" which took place before the 2002 FIFA World Cup.
People in Saipan
Notable residents
See also
External links
