WORLDNORTH AMERICAGUATEMALAGUATEMALA

Guatemala is a country in the Central America region of North America. It has borders to Mexico in the north/north-west, to Belize in the north-east, to Honduras in the south-east, to El Salvador in the south. It also has a Pacific coastline to the south-west, and a tiny piece of Caribbean coastline to the east.

Regions


  • Central Highlands: Around Guatemala City
  • Western Highlands: Many modern Maya towns
  • Caribbean Coast: Hot and steamy
  • Petén: Hot jungle in the north, with most impressive ancient Maya ruins
  • Pacific Highlands: Hot, going down to the Pacific beaches


  • ; Administrative divisions : 22 departments (departamentos, singular - departamento); Alta Verapaz, Baja Verapaz, Chimaltenango, Chiquimula, El Progreso, Escuintla, Guatemala, Huehuetenango, Izabal, Jalapa, Jutiapa, Peten, Quetzaltenango, Quiche, Retalhuleu, Sacatepequez, San Marcos, Santa Rosa, Solola, Suchitepequez, Totonicapan, Zacapa

    Cities

  • La Antigua Guatemala: Colonial Spanish capital of Central America, a World Heritage site, and the most popular amongst tourists
  • Panajachel: Doorway to Lake Atitlán, paradise on Earth, and its surrounding towns.
  • Cobán: In Alta Verapaz
  • Escuintla
  • Flores: Island city capital of Petén
  • Guatemala City: Capital and largest city with many amenities
  • Huehuetenango
  • Melchor de Mencos: Border city
  • Puerto Barrios: Caribbean seaport
  • Puerto San José: Pacific seaport
  • Quetzaltenango: Second largest city, in the western highlands
  • Sayaxché: River gateway in Peten
  • Santiago Atitlán: Small town on the southern shore of Lake Atitlán


  • Other destinations
  • Chichicastenango: Highland Maya town famous for its traditional market
  • Lake Atitlán: Beautiful lake in the mountains surrounded by picturesque villages and volcanos, which is becoming more and more touristic
  • * Panajachel, small tourist-oriented town that is good starting point for Lake Atitlán
  • * Santiago Atitlán, small town on south side of Lake Atitlán, famous for a shrine to Maximón
  • * San Pedro la Laguna (also known as San Pedro de Laguna), small town on southwest side of Lake Atitlán, offering low-cost living, great views, and a modest Spanish-language training industry
  • Lake Izabal
  • Livingston: Caribbean coast town with Garifuna culture
  • Monterrico: The beach closest to Guatemala City and Antigua

  • Rio Dulce


  • Maya ruins
  • Aguateca
  • Cancuén
  • Ceibal
  • Dos Pilas
  • El Mirador
  • El Peru/Waká
  • El Zotz
  • Gumarcaj: Also known as Utatlán, near Santa Cruz del Quiche
  • Iximché
  • Mixco Viejo
  • Nakbé
  • Nakúm
  • Naranjo
  • Piedras Negras
  • Quiriguá: Impressive Classic Maya sculptures
  • San Bartolo Pre-Classic Mural
  • Tikal: The Largest of Maya ruins, this ancient Maya site is probably worth the trip to Guatemala by itself.
  • Uaxactun
  • Yaxhá
  • Zaculeu: Near Huehuetenango


  • Volcanoes
  • Volcán Tacaná (4093m)
  • Volcán Tajumulco (4220m)
  • Volcán Santa María (3772m)
  • Volcán Atitlán (3537m)
  • Volcán Acatenango (3976m)
  • Volcán de Ipala (1650m)
  • Volcán de Pacaya (2500m) - this is an active volcano about 30 minutes outside of Antigua. Some days it will not be accessible as the volcano may be too active to observe safely. Bring a jacket since it will be windy and cold at the top (although the ground will feel warm) and wear long pants as the volcanic rock can easily give you a nice cut.
  • Volcán San Pedro (3450m)


  • Understand

    Guatemala has a rich and distinctive culture from the long mix of elements from Spain and the native Maya people. This diverse history and the natural beauty of the land has created a destination rich in interesting and scenic sites.

    When to go
    It is difficult to travel in the more remote areas during the rainy season between mid-May to mid-October and into mid-November in the north.

    The elaborate ceremonies in Antigua the week leading up to Easter are a highlight.


    The months of March and April are very hot especially in the low lying areas such as the pacific coastal plain.

    Money
    The local currency is the Quetzal which is named after the national bird, which has ancient and mythic connotations even still. US dollars are widely accepted and can be exchanged in most small towns. There seemed to be a shortage of small denomination notes and coins (december 2006 - february 2007) which are essential if you want to eat from street vendors or shop in markets. Change your larger notes at every opportunity and try not to spend your change. Often store owners lie to you, claiming that they do not have change so be persistent. ATMs can be found in the major towns but do not expect to find them in every tourist spot. It is fairly easy to find your self in a town without an ATM or a place to change money.

    Do not expect to be able to easily exchange travelers checks to Guatemala. You might find a few places willing to accept checks issued by American Express but all other types are universally turned down. Amazingly even major banks in Guatemala City do not accept VISA travelers checks.

    Get in


    By plane
    Guatemala's main airport, La Aurora International Airport (GUA), is near Guatemala City. International flights arrive mostly from other Central American countries and North America.

    Guatemala's secondary airport is situated in Flores, Petén. This small airport receives flights from a small number of close destinations including Belize, Mexico City and Guatemala City.

    It is sometimes cheaper to fly into Cancun and take buses through Belize or to fly into Mexico City and then take a low-cost airlines flight on Aviacsa for around $100 USD to Tapachula which is the Mexico/Guatemala border.

    By car
    From Mexico, or Honduras, El Salvador, via Pan-American Highway, also possible with more difficulty from Belize.

    The small, three-wheeled tuk-tuk is a common vehicle providing local taxi service. It can carry up to three passengers. You will need to negotiate your fare with the driver before you start, because they generally don't have meters. The tuk-tuk originates from India, and can be found in many developing countries. The name refers to the sound of the motorcycle engine powering the vehicle.

    By bus
    From Belize City to Flores (9 hours) and Guatemala City (20+ hours).

    El Salvador: San Salvador, Santa Ana

    Honduras: Copan, San Pedro Sula, La Ceiba, Tegucigalpa

    Nicaragua: Managua

    Costa Rica: San José

    Panama: Panama City

    Mexico: Tapachula, Palenque, Chetumal, Tulum, Cancun, Mexico City

    Tica Bus is a bus company that has newer buses and mainly travels between Central American countries with limited stops.

    It's hard to miss the colourfully-decorated buses that crowd the streets of major cities and highways of Guatemala. These are chicken buses, and are a common form of travel for Guatemalans and a travel adventure for tourists. They are much cheaper than tourist vans or taxis (example: a 10km drive from Antigua to the countryside costs Q2.75 as of December 2005). They are usually very crowded, with three people squeezed into seats designed to seat two North American children, and more people standing in the aisles. The bus itself is frequently a used North American school bus; the "Blue Bird" and "Ford" logos are clearly visible. In addition to the driver there is usually a conductor standing in the door. The conductor collects fares, and from time to time jumps out to direct the bus through a blind intersection or around a tight turn. On the highways, the chicken bus drivers are aggressive, not hesitating to overtake in the face of oncoming traffic.

    Bus conductors frequently charge non-latino tourists 2-3 times more than latino tourists. If you speak Spanish and are persistent, they often will let you pay the same as everyone else.
    Sending a message to the Guatemala tourism department "Inguat" will let them know of this problem.

    You can board a chicken bus almost anywhere along its route. If you put out your arm, it will stop. You board and find a space to sit or stand. The conductor will come back to you after the bus is underway, and collect your fare. You need to recognise where your stop is, and move to the door in time. You ask the bus to stop, more or less wherever you want to get off.

    By boat
    Puerto Barrios, from Punta Gorda, Belize

    Get around

    By car or bus, airplane to the Peten.

    Many regular intercity buses.

    Tourist Shuttles are 10 times more expensive than regular buses (including intercity buses).

    Guatemala City: Try the local trolley, Chiltepe Tours (www.chiltepe.com), departing at 10:00 and 13:00 hours from hotels in zone 10, visiting the historic downtown of Guatemala City, with one stop at the National Palace, and one at Museo Popol Vuh. Duration, approximately 3 hours.

    Be leery of ayudantes (the bus helpers hanging out of the front door yelling) charging foreigners extra. Listen to what others are paying and insist that you pay the same amount.

    Tour operators
  • AdventureSmith Guatemala Travel, . A California based tour operator specializing in expedition cruises and wilderness adventures. Trips are geared toward active travelers, nature and culture enthusiasts. Costs begin at $1299 per week.

  • Mayan Travel, . A Canadian and Guatemalan based tour operator specializing in expedition in Guatemala, hotel bookings. Offers customized trips, and daily trips to Tikal.

  • Mundo Guatemala, . Incoming tour operator for Guatemala and Central America, offering competent pre-tour planning support and customized travel for FIT and groups based on preference and budget. Main focus: special interest, archeology, culture, nature, ecoturism, soft adventure and incentive travel; educational travel options include Study & Travel, Volunteering and international health electives.

  • Turansa Travel Agency & Tour Operator, . Antigua based tour operator specializing in the design, promotion, operation of guided tours and independent travel services to Guatemala and Central America.


  • Talk

    Spanish is the official language of Guatemala, and the most commonly spoken. Over twenty indigenous languages are still spoken throughout, but many of the Maya people have at least a working knowledge of basic Spanish as well. For the Garifuna people in Livingston, Garifuna and English are the main languages (but Spanish is spoken as well).

    The most familiar form of Spanish spoken among good friends is the "tú/vos" form, but varies between regions. It is considered rude and very informal if used with someone that you do not know. As a tourist, it is safer to stick with the "usted" form. However, don't be surprised if some homestay families and some language teachers jump right into using the "tu/vos" form. If they do, you may respond in kind.

    Buy

    The national currency is Quetzal(es). The rate of change is approximately 7.6 Quetzales for 1 US Dollar (January 2007). It is not common to use dollars in tourist areas. You will most likely have difficulties in changing other currencies than US Dollars, but Euros are becoming increasingly more common.

    It is common to bargain for most purchases in the open air market. Though you may be able to bargain in other places, be aware you are no more likely to bargain in a Guatemalan Radio Shack than an American one.

    Things to buy in Guatemala
  • Ron Zacapa Centenario, Guatemalas prize-winning rum
  • Fabrics and Traditional textiles: Traditional mayan blouses are known as huipiles (whi-peel) and skirts cortes. Be aware that these are almost always entirely handmade and prices for a high-end huipil may be as high as Q1000.
  • Jade - large jade factory in Antigua, very expensive though
  • Coffee - touted as one of the best-tasting varieties in the world
  • Cardamom - the largest exporter in the world, Coban in Alta Verapaz is the capital of this trade.


  • Eat

    Typical food: Kaq Ik, Pepián, tortillas, frijoles negros (stewed black beans), caldos (beef broths), eggs, rice, and some meat.


    The type of food really depends on how much you want to spend and what type of place you want to spend it at. You can get almost any type of food at the main tourist locations (Antigua, Guatemala City, etc.). In the aldeas (small towns) your choices will obviously be limited to what has been listed above.

    Drink

    Guatemalans usually dress down when they go out.

    See Staying Healthy section below.

    All Coca-Cola and Pepsi type products are available plus many products from local soft drink manufacturers.

    A popular local beer is Gallo. Many beers found in America can also be found in the tourist areas.

    Sleep


    You will likely find cheap hotels in every town or village in Guatemala. There are also many high quality hotels for those seeking additonal comfort and amenities. See the individual destination articles for hotel listings.

    Learn


    Guatemala is a great place to learn Spanish. The prices are low, and Guatemalan Spanish is considered pleasing. Antigua has the highest number of Spanish schools and is also the most popular place for tourists. But if studying Spanish is your main concern, you might be better of elsewhere, because you can actually go around in Antigua for a whole day without hearing anything but English.

    Because of this, many language students head towards San Pedro la Laguna, seated by Lake Atitlan, where a wide range of language schools also offer Spanish language courses (some quite inexpensive). But as in Antigua the quality of the lessons might not be up to what expect, so ask around.

    Instead Try Quetzaltenango which is considered now -2005- as the educative tourist destination of Guatemala. Another option is to look among other less touristed cities and villages for other quality schools.

    Work


    There are vaious volunteering opportunities in Guatemala as well.
  • Proyecto Mosaico Guatemala (PMG) will, for a fee, set you up with an organisation in Guatemala which needs a volunteer. They also can arrange a home stay, Spanish language classes, and other services.
  • Casa Alianza Guatemala welcomes enquiries from potential volunteers who want to "help provide care and assistance to, and protect the human rights of, the children and adolescents who live on the streets of Latin America."
  • Some schools organise social projects as well. See, for example, the Guate Spanish school's entry under Quetzaltenango.
  • Entremundos is said to organize local NGOs.
  • CARE is said to organise volunteer projects in Guatemala .


  • Stay safe

    NEVER EVER take photos of children without permission. Some Guatemalans are extremely paranoid about this, and will assume you are a kidnapper (even if children aren't theirs). Not trusting the police, they often take matters into their own hands -- including murder. Of course, this doesn't include a few children mixed in with many adults at a distance. This occurs mainly on the inner Guatemalan villages. In the major cities people are somewhat more open towards picture taking, but don't overdo it.

    It is dangerous to travel on some of the major roads after dark.
    One of the best things about Guatemala is the abundance of natural beauty and numerous treks. Some of these are notorious for robberies ( ex. Volcan de Agua, trails around Lago de Atitlan, Volcan de Pacaya. Always ask around about the situation before embarking blindly. Inguat, locals, and fellow travellers are safe bets for information. Travelling in groups during daylight sometimes decreases the risk, but not always.
    Dangerous traffic. You will encounter many 1 lane roads (1 lane each way)
    and drivers are apt to swerve back and forth, avoiding potholes and bumps along the way. There are also various multiple lane highways. Traffic in Guatemala City and surrounding metropolitan areas during rush hour is very slow, but general driving everywhere is usually very fast (average speeds of up to 60 mph in some city roads).
    High crime rate (especially in Guatemala City. Avoid zone 18, zone 19.).

    Although some say that travellers should always carry a bit of extra cash and be prepared to bribe a few police officers, most tourists will have no reason to give bribes to anyone. The most likely situations in which you might have to bribe police would be if you're driving a car or riding a motorcycle and are stopped for fictitious violations of traffic rules. Most European/North Americans find it immoral but its much easier to spend 50 Quetzales and avoid the headaches than to be harassed by the police. Phrases such as "I'm sorry officer. Is there any way we can resolve this right now?" work well. Do not offer bribes directly to an officer because it is illegal and you could actually end up in more trouble.

    Keep any important documents or items (passports, wallets, etc.) in your front pocket or close to your person.

    Stay healthy


    Only drink purified water (agua pura).

    CDC states that malaria risk exists in rural areas at altitudes lower than 1,500 meters, with no risk in Antigua or Lake Atitlán.

    Dengue fever is endemic throughout Guatemala.

    Hepatitis A&B vaccinations are recommended.

    Be careful with the hygiene.

    Respect

    Address people you don't know in a formal manner (Señor, Señora, Usted), and greet people in the following way:
  • day - "buenos dias" "feliz dia"
  • night- "feliz noche" "buenas noches"

  • You'll encounter this in more suburban, rural areas. Native guatemalans are raised to greet strangers formally.

    Contact

    Guatemalas international calling code is 502. There are no area codes. Phone numbers all have eight digits. On September 18, 2004, the phone system switched from seven to eight digits, and there is a scheme for adding specific digits to the front of seven-digit numbers (WTNG.info description).

    The phone system isn't great, but it works. Tourists can call abroad from call centers, where you pay by the minute. Typically, the cost is around 8 quetzals for a 10 min call to North America. Cell phones are quite cheap and calling to the US through one can get as low as $0.08 a min. If you are planning to stay for a while and plan to use the phone, you should consider buying a cheap prepaid phone. Wireless nation-wide internet access for laptops is also available as a service from some companies. Telefonica has good coverage with their PCMCIA EV-DO cards.

    The post system is traditionally not reliable, but your post cards usually get through. A stamp for Europe is Q5. Internet access is not widely available, though you may find internet cafes in the tourist friendly areas - Antigua, Atitlan, etc. Some hotels may also offer computer banks with internet access. The exception to this is Guatemala City. Several cafes and restaurants now offer free WiFi. Just ask and you eventually will find some sort of free access.



    The Republic of Guatemala (República de Guatemala, ), is a country in Central America bordered by Mexico to the northwest, the Pacific Ocean to the southwest, Belize and the Caribbean Sea to the northeast, and Honduras and El Salvador to the southeast.

    The most populous nation in Central America, Guatemala is a representative democracy with its capital at Guatemala City. Although the nation has been relatively stable since 1996, Guatemala's recent history has been plagued by civil war and military coups, which have slowed the nation's development. Large portions of Guatemala's interior remain wholly undeveloped, including the nation's many rainforests and wetlands. Guatemala's abundance of biologically significant and unique ecosystems contribute to Mesoamerica's designation as an important biodiversity hotspot.

    Etymology

    The country name comes from the Nahuatl Cuauhtēmallān, "place of many trees", a translation of K'iche' Mayan K’ii’chee’, "many trees" (that is, "forest").

    History


    Pre-Columbian
    The first proof of human settlers in Guatemala goes back to 10,000 BC, although there is some evidence that puts this date at 18,000 BC, such as obsidian arrow heads found in various parts of the country. There is archaeological proof that early Guatemalan settlers were hunters and gatherers, but pollen samples from Petén and the Pacific coast indicate that maize cultivation was developed by 3500 BC. Archaic sites have been documented in Quiché in the Highlands and Sipacate, Escuintla on the central Pacific coast (6500 BC).

    Archaeologists divide the pre-Columbian history of Mesoamerica into 3 periods: The Pre-Classic from 2000 BC to 250 AD, the Classic from 250 to 900 AD, and the Post-Classic from 900 to 1500 AD. Until recently, the Pre-Classic was regarded as a formative period, with small villages of farmers who lived in huts, and few permanent buildings, but this notion has been challenged by recent discoveries of monumental architecture from that period, such as an altar in La Blanca, San Marcos, some 3 mt. in diameter from 1000 BC; ceremonial sites at Miraflores and El Naranjo from 800 BC; the earliest monumental masks; and the Mirador Basin cities of Nakbé, Xulnal, Tintal, Wakná and El Mirador.
    El Mirador was by far the most populated city in the pre-Columbian America, and contained the largest pyramid in the world, at 2,800,000 cubic meters in volume (some 200,000 more than the Great Pyramid of Giza in Egypt). Mirador was the first politically organized state in America, named the Kan Kingdom in ancient texts. There were 26 cities, all connected by Sacbeob (highways), which were several kilometers long, up to 40 meters wide, and 2 to 4 meters above the ground, paved with stucco, that are clearly distinguishable from the air in the most extensive virgin tropical rain forest in Mesoamerica.

    The Classic period of Mesoamerican civilization corresponds to the height of the Maya civilization, and is represented by countless sites throughout Guatemala, although the largest concentration is in Petén. This period is characterized by heavy city-building, the development of independent city-states, and contact with other Mesoamerican cultures.

    This lasted until around 900 AD, when, for reasons not understood by archaeologists, the Maya went into decline, and abandoned many of the cities of the central lowlands. The Post-Classic period is represented by regional kingdoms such as the Itzá and Ko'woj in the Lakes area in Petén, and the Mam, Ki'ch'es, Kack'chiquel, Tz'utuh'il, Pokom'chí, Kek'chi and Chortí in the Highlands. These cities preserved many aspects of Mayan culture, but would never equal the size or power of the Classic cities.

    Colonial
    After discovering the New World, the Spanish mounted several peaceful expeditions to Guatemala, beginning in 1518. Before long, Spanish contact resulted in an epidemic that devastated native populations (believed to be Viruela, Spanish smallpox, based on the description in the "Memorial de Sololá").

    Hernándo Cortés, who had led the Spanish conquest of Mexico, granted a permit to Captain Pedro de Alvarado, to conquer this land. Alvarado at first allied himself with the Cakchiquel nation to fight against their traditional rivals the Quiché nation. Alvarado later turned against the Cakchiquels, and eventually held the entire region under Spanish domination.

    During the colonial period, Guatemala was a Captaincy General (Capitanía General de Guatemala) of Spain, and a part of New Spain (Mexico). It extended from the Soconusco region - now in southern Mexico (states of Chiapas, Tabasco) - to Costa Rica. This region was not as rich in minerals (gold and silver) as Mexico and Peru, and was therefore not considered to be as important. Its main products were sugarcane, cocoa, blue añil dye, red dye from cochineal insects, and precious woods used in artwork for churches and palaces in Spain.

    The first Capital was named Tecpan Guatemala, founded in July 25 1524 with the name of (Villa de Santiago de Guatemala) and was located near Iximché, the Cakchiquel's capital city, It was moved to Ciudad Vieja on November 22 1527, when the Cakchiquel attacked the city. On September 11 1541 the city was flooded when the lagoon in the crater of the Agua Volcano collapsed due to heavy rains and earthquakes, and was moved 4 miles to Antigua Guatemala, on the Panchoy Valley, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This City was destroyed by several earthquakes in 1773-1774, and the King of Spain, granted the authorization to move the Captaincy General, to the Ermita Valley, named after a Catholic Church to the Virgen de El Carmen, in its current location, founded in January 2 1776.

    Independence
    On September 15, 1821, Guatemala declared itself independent from Spain.

    On October 3 1821, the Captaincy-General of Guatemala, (formed by Chiapas, Guatemala, El Salvador, Nicaragua, Costa Rica and Honduras) officially proclaimed its independence from Spain and its incorporation into the Mexican Empire. This region had been formally subject to New Spain throughout the colonial period, but as a practical matter was administered separately. All but Chiapas soon separated from Mexico after Agustín I from Mexico was forced to abdicate.

    The Guatemalan provinces formed the United Provinces of Central America, also called the Central American Federation (Federacion de Estados Centroamericanos).

    ;Territorial Dispute
    Guatemala has long claimed all or part of the territory of neighbouring Belize, formerly part of the Spanish colony, and currently an independent Commonwealth Realm which recognises Queen Elizabeth II as its Head of State. Guatemala recognized Belize's independence in 1990, but their territorial dispute is not resolved. Negotiations are currently underway under the auspices of the Organization of American States and the Commonwealth of Nations to conclude it.

    The Modern Fight for a Nation

    On July 4, 1944, Dictator Jorge Ubico Castañeda was forced to resign his office in response to a wave of protests and a general strike. His replacement, General Juan Federico Ponce Vaides, was forced out of office on October 20, 1944 by a coup d'état led by Major Francisco Javier Arana and Captain Jacobo Arbenz Guzmán. About 100 people were killed in the coup. The country was led by a military junta made up of Arana, Arbenz, and Jorge Toriello Garrido. The Junta called Guatemala's first free election, which was won with a majority of 85 percent by the prominent writer and teacher Juan José Arévalo Bermejo, who had lived in exile in Argentina for 14 years. Arévalo was the first democratically elected president of Guatemala to fully complete the term for which he was elected. His "Christian Socialist" policies, inspired by the U.S. New Deal, were criticized by landowners and the upper class as "communist."

    This period was also the beginning of the Cold War between the U.S. and the USSR, which was to have a considerable influence on Guatemalan history. From the 1950s through the 1990s, the U.S. government directly supported Guatemala's army with training, weapons, and money.

    In 1954, Arévalo's freely elected Guatemalan successor, Jacobo Arbenz, was overthrown by the U.S. Central Intelligence Agency (CIA) and a small group of Guatemalans (landowners, the old military caste, and the Catholic Church), after the government instituted decree No. 900, which expropriated large tracts of land owned by the United Fruit Company, a U.S.-based banana merchant (Chiquita Banana). The CIA codename for the coup was Operation PBSUCCESS (it was the CIA's second successful overthrow of a foreign government after the 1953 coup in Iran). Colonel Carlos Castillo Armas was installed as president in 1954 and ruled until he was assassinated by a member of his personal guard in 1957.

    In the election that followed, General Miguel Ydígoras Fuentes assumed power. He is most celebrated for challenging the Mexican president to a gentleman’s duel on the bridge on the south border to end a feud on the subject of illegal fishing by Mexican boats on Guatemala's Pacific coast, two of which were sunk by the Guatemalan Air Force. Ydigoras authorized the training of 5,000 anti-Castro Cubans in Guatemala. He also provided airstrips in the region of Petén for what later became the failed Bay of Pigs Invasion in 1961. Ydigoras' government was ousted in 1963 when the Air Force attacked several military bases. The coup was led by his Defense Minister, Colonel Enrique Peralta Azurdia.

    In 1966, Julio César Méndez Montenegro was elected president of Guatemala under the banner "Democratic Opening." Mendez Montenegro was the candidate of the Revolutionary Party, a center-left party which had its origins in the post-Ubico era. It was during this time that rightist paramilitary organizations, such as the "White Hand" (Mano Blanca), and the Anticommunist Secret Army, (Ejército Secreto Anticomunista), were formed. Those organizations were the forerunners of the infamous "Death Squads." Military advisers of The United States Army Special Forces (Green Berets) were sent to Guatemala to train troops and help transform its army into a modern counter-insurgency force, which eventually made it the most sophisticated in Central America.

    In 1970, Colonel Carlos Manuel Arana Osorio was elected president. A new guerrilla movement entered the country from Mexico, into the Western Highlands in 1972. In the disputed election of 1974, General Kjell Lauguerud García defeated General Efraín Ríos Montt, a candidate of the Christian Democratic Party, who claimed that he had been cheated out of a victory through fraud. On February 4, 1976, a major earthquake destroyed several cities and caused more than 25,000 deaths. In 1978, in a fraudulent election, General Romeo Lucas García assumed power. The 1970s saw the birth of two new guerrilla organizations, The Poor Guerrilla Army (EGP) and the Organization of the Peoples in Arms (ORPA), who began and intensified by the end of the seventies, guerrilla attacks that included urban and rural guerrilla warfare, mainly against the military and some of the civilian supporters of the army. In 1979, the United States president, Jimmy Carter, ordered a ban on all military aid to the Guatemalan Army because of the widespread and systematic abuse of human rights. Almost immediately, the Israeli Government took over supplying the Guatemalan Army with advisors, weapons and other military supplies.

    In 1980, a group of Quiché Indians took over the Spanish Embassy to protest army massacres in the countryside. The Guatemalan government launched an assault that killed almost everyone inside as a result of a fire that consumed the building. The Guatemalan government claimed that the activists set the fire and immolated themselves. However, the Spanish ambassador, who survived the fire, disputed this claim, noting that the Guatemalan police intentionally killed almost everyone inside and set the fire to erase traces of their acts. As a result of this incident, the government of Spain broke diplomatic relations with Guatemala. This government was overthrown in 1982. General Efraín Ríos Montt was named President of the military junta, continuing the bloody campaign of torture, disappearances, and "scorched earth" warfare. The country became a pariah state internationally. Ríos Montt was overthrown by General Óscar Humberto Mejía Victores, who called for an election of a national constitutional assembly to write a new constitution, leading to a free election in 1986, which was won by Vinicio Cerezo Arévalo, the candidate of the Christian Democracy Party.

    In 1982, the four Guerrilla groups, EGP, ORPA, FAR and PGT, merged and formed the URNG, influenced by the Salvadoran guerrilla FMLN, the Nicaraguan FSLN and Cuba's Government, in order to become stronger. As a result of the Army's "scorched earth" tactics in the countryside, more than 45,000 Guatemalans fled across the border to Mexico. The Mexican government placed the refugees in camps in Chiapas and Tabasco.

    In 1992, the Nobel Peace Prize was awarded to Rigoberta Menchú for her efforts to bring international attention to the government-sponsored genocide against the indigenous population.

    The bloody 35-year old war of repression ended in 1996 with a peace accord between the guerrillas and the government of President Álvaro Arzú, negotiated by the United Nations through intense brokerage by nations such as Norway and Spain. Both sides made major concessions. The guerrilla fighters disarmed and received land to work. According to the U.N.-sponsored truth commission (styled the "Commission for Historical Clarification"), government forces and state-sponsored paramilitaries were responsible for over 93% of the human rights violations during the war.
    During the first 10 years, the victims of the state-sponsored terror were primarily students, workers, professionals, and opposition figures, but in the last years they were thousands of mostly rural Mayan farmers and non-combatants. More than 450 Mayan villages were destroyed and over 1 million people became internal and external refugees. In certain areas, such as Baja Verapaz, the Truth Commission considered that the Guatemalan state engaged in an intentional policy of genocide against particular ethnic groups in the Civil War.
    In 1999, U.S. president Bill Clinton stated that the United States was wrong to have provided support to Guatemalan military forces that took part in the brutal civilian killings.

    Since the peace accords, Guatemala has enjoyed successive democratic elections, most recently in 2003. The current government has signed free trade agreements with the United States and the rest of Central America through CAFTA, and other agreements with Mexico, and Panama.

    Politics


    Politics of Guatemala takes place in a framework of a presidential representative democratic republic, whereby the President of Guatemala is both head of state and head of government, and of a pluriform multi-party system. Executive power is exercised by the government. Legislative power is vested in both the government and the Congress of the Republic. The Judiciary is independent of the executive and the legislature.

    Departments and municipalities


    Guatemala is divided into 22 departments (departamentos) and sub-divided into about 332 municipalities (municipios).

    The departments include:

    1. Alta Verapaz
    2. Baja Verapaz
    3. Chimaltenango
    4. Chiquimula
    5. Petén
    6. El Progreso
    7. El Quiché
    8. Escuintla
    9. Guatemala
    10. Huehuetenango
    11. Izabal

    1. Jalapa
    2. Jutiapa
    3. Quetzaltenango
    4. Retalhuleu
    5. Sacatepéquez
    6. San Marcos
    7. Santa Rosa
    8. Sololá
    9. Suchitepéquez
    10. Totonicapán
    11. Zacapa


    Guatemala is heavily centralized. Transportation, communications, business, politics, and most relevant urban activity takes place in Guatemala City.

    Guatemala City has about 2 million inhabitants within the city limits and more than 5 million within in the urban area. This is a significant percentage of the population (12 million).

    Geography


    Guatemala is mountainous, except for the south coastal area and the northern vast lowlands of Petén department. Two mountain chains enter Guatemala from west to east, dividing the country into three major regions: the highlands, where the mountains are located; the Pacific coast, south of the mountains; and the Petén region, north of the mountains. All major cities are located in the highlands and Pacific coast regions; by comparison, Petén is sparsely populated. These three regions vary in climate, elevation, and landscape, providing dramatic contrasts between hot and humid tropical lowlands and colder and drier highland peaks. Volcán Tajumulco, at 4,220 meters, is the highest point in Central America.

    The rivers are short and shallow in the Pacific vertient, larger and deeper, such as the Polochic which drains in Lake Izabal Río Dulce, (Motagua) and Sartún that forms the boundary with Belize in the Caribbean and the Gulf of Mexico vertient (Usumacinta, which forms the boundary between Chiapas, Mexico and Petén and its tributaries such as La Pasión and San Pedro.

    Natural disasters

    Guatemala's location on the Caribbean Sea and Pacific Ocean makes it a target for hurricanes, such as Hurricane Mitch in 1998 and Hurricane Stan in October of 2005, which killed more than 1,500 people. The damage was not wind related, but rather due to significant flooding.

    Guatemala's highlands lie atop the boundary between the Caribbean and North American tectonic plates, and thus are subject to frequent earthquakes and volcanic activity. Guatemala has 37 volcanoes, four of them active: Pacaya, Santiaguito, Fuego and Tacaná. The last major earthquake was on February 4 1976, killing more than 25,000 in the Central Highlands.

    On June 13, 2007 a 6.8 Magnitude earthquake hit Guatemala at 3:29pm New York Time.(1:29pm Guatemalan Time) No Reports of death or major damage. It only lasted for 30 seconds and this is the second time that an earthquake happened in a week. The last time was June 8, which was a 5.9 Magnitude earthquake.

    Biodiversity
    The country has 14 ecoregions ranging from Mangrove forests, to both ocean littorals with 5 different ecosystems. Guatemala has an endemic Abies guatemalensis) species. Guatemala has 252 listed wetlands, including 5 lakes, 61 lagoons. 100 rivers, 3 swamps, 6 of those wetlands are of international importance or RAMSAR sites. Tikal National Park, was the first mix UNESCO World Heritage Site, in the world. Guatemala is a country of distinct fauna. Guatemala has some 1246 known species, of these, 6.7% are endemic and 8.1% are threatened species. Guatemala is home to at least 8681 species of vascular plants, of which 13.5% are endemic. 5.4% of Guatemala is protected under IUCN categories I-V. Guatemala has the largest percentage of Protected areas in Central America, with a total of 91 protected areas, more than 28% of the countries territory. .

    Demographics


    Mestizos, known as Ladinos in Central America, or pure Amerindian but Spanish-speaking, and people of European descent (primarily of Spanish, but also those of German, English, Italian, and Scandinavian descent) comprise 60% of the population while Amerindians comprise approximately 40%. (K'iche 9.1%, Kaqchikel 8.4%, Mam 7.9%, Q'eqchi 6.3%, other Mayan 8.6%) of the population . Though most of Guatemala's population is rural, urbanization is accelerating. Guatemala City is expanding at a rapid rate, and Quetzaltenango, the second largest city, is growing as well. Rural-to-urban migration is fuelled by a combination of government neglect of the countryside, low farm gate prices, oppressive labor conditions on rural plantations, the high concentration of arable land in the hands of a few wealthy families, and the (often unrealistic) perception of higher wages in the city.

    In 1900, Guatemala had a population of 885,000 willy. Over the course of the twentieth century the population of the country grew, the fastest growth in the Western Hemisphere. The ever-increasing pattern of emigration to the United States has led to the growth of Guatemalan communities in California, Florida, Illinois, New York,Texas and elsewhere since the 1970s.

    Economy

    The agricultural sector accounts for about one-fourth of GDP, two-fifths of exports, and half of the labor force. Coffee, sugar, textiles, fresh vegetables, and bananas are the country's main exports. Also economically important are remittances from Guatemalans working abroad. The rate of inflation was 5.7% in 2006.

    The 1996 peace accords that ended the decades-long Civil War removed a major obstacle to foreign investment.

    In March 2005, despite massive street protests, Guatemala's congress ratified the Dominican Republic - Central American Free Trade Agreement (DR-CAFTA) between several Central American nations and the United States. Guatemala also has free trade agreements with Taiwan and Colombia.

    Culture

    Guatemala City is home to many of the nation’s libraries and museums, including the National Archives, the National Library, and the Museum of Archaeology and Ethnology, which has an extensive collection of Maya artifacts. There are private museums, such as the Ixchel, which focuses on textiles, and the Popol Vuh, which focuses on Mayan archeology. Both museums are housed inside the Universidad Francisco Marroquín campus. Almost each of the 329 municipalities in the country has a small museum.

    ;Literature
    The Guatemala National Prize in Literature is a one-time only award that recognizes an individual writer's body of work. It has been given annually since 1988 by the Ministry of Culture and Sports.

    Miguel Angel Asturias, won the Literature Nobel Prize in 1966 for the Rabinal Achí, a Maya Kek'chi' play. The play was declared a Masterpiece of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO.

    Language

    Although Spanish is the official language, it is not universally spoken among the indigenous population, nor is it often spoken as a second language. Twenty-one distinct Mayan languages are spoken, especially in rural areas, as well as several non-Mayan Amerindian languages, such as the indigenous Xinca, and Garifuna, an Arawakan language spoken on the Caribbean coast. According to Decreto Número 19-2003, twenty-three languages are recognized as National Languages.

    The Peace Accords signed in December 1996 provide for the translation of some official documents and voting materials into several indigenous languages (see summary of main substantive accords) and mandate the provision of interpreters in legal cases for non-Spanish speakers. The accord also sanctioned bilingual education in Spanish and indigenous languages. It is common for indigenous Guatemalans to learn or speak between two to five of the nation's other languages, including Spanish.

    Religion

    Catholic Christianity was the only religion during the colonial era. However, Protestantism has increased markedly in recent decades, especially under the reign of dictator and evangelical pastor General Efraín Ríos Montt. More than one third of Guatemalans are Protestant, chiefly Evangelicals and Pentecostals.

    The predominant religion is Latin Rite Catholicism. Protestantism and traditional Mayan religions are practiced by an estimated 33% and 1% of the population, respectively. It is common for traditional Mayan practices to be incorporated into Christian ceremonies and worship, a phenomenon known as syncretism.
    The practice of traditional Mayan religion is increasing as a result of the cultural protections established under the peace accords. The government has instituted a policy of providing altars at every Mayan ruin found in the country so that traditional ceremonies may be performed there.

    There are also small communities of Jews (about 1200), Muslims (1200), and members of other faiths.

    Education
    The government runs a number of public elementary and secondary-level schools. These schools are free, though the cost of uniforms, books, supplies, and transportation makes them less accessible to the poorer segments of society. Many middle and upper-class children go to private schools. The country also has one public university (Universidad de San Carlos de Guatemala), and 9 private ones (see List of universities in Guatemala). Only 69.1% of the population aged 15 and over are literate, the lowest literacy rate in Central America.

  • Communications in Guatemala
  • Transport in Guatemala
  • List of Guatemalans
  • Quetzal (national symbol of Guatemala)


  • References

  • Historia General de Guatemala, 1999, several authors ISBN 84-88522-07-4.


  • External links
  • Encyclopaedia Britannica Guatemala - Country Facts Page
  • UK Foreign Office Country Profile for Guatemala
  • Sitio para la comunidad Guatemalteca - Community page
  • Guatemala photo encyclopedia

  • Government
  • Congreso de la República – Congress of the Republic of Guatemala
  • Organismo Judicial de Guatemala Judicial Branch of Guatemala
  • Gobierno de Guatemala Guatemalan Government Page


  • Pre-Columbian civilizations
  • -- The Mirador Basin Project
  • Guatemala, Cradle of the Maya Civilization


  • Culture
  • Guatemalan Literature Webpage
  • People of Guatemala


  • Human Rights
  • Amnesty International Annual Report 2006 – Guatemala
  • Guatemala Human Rights Commission
  • Network in Solidarity with the People of Guatemala


  • Other
  • Biodiversity, Ecology and Landscapes Galleries
  • Guatemala and its changes over the past 30 years By Francisco Pérez de Antón (in Spanish)











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