Nicosia (Lefkosia (Λευκωσία) in Greek, Lefkoşa (Lefkosha) in Turkish) is the centrally located capital of Cyprus and by far the largest city on the island. It also acts as a separate administrative capital for the Nicosia district. The municipality of Nicosia only governs the central portion, however the city now sprawls for several kilometers and has engulfed several surrounding villages and settlements. Its population hovers around the 250,000 mark (a third of the total population of Cyprus) but the city has a feel of one much larger. It is the administrative and financial hub of the island as well as home to several universities, colleges and other educational establishments. It also hosts most foreign embassies and offshore companies (a big industry in Cyprus nowadays). Along with its international students and foreign workers it has developed a truly cosmopolitan feel.
Understand
Nicosia is the world's last divided capital. The barbed wire and guardtowers of the Green Line cut the town in two, with the northern side being the capital of the self-proclaimed Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus and the southern half being the capital of the Republic of Cyprus.
Politics aside, Nicosia is a little short on both the archaeological treasure troves and beaches with pulsating nightlife that bring most visitors to Cyprus. But the Old City with its museums and churches is pleasant enough, and precisely due to the comparative lack of tourists, the city retains more of an authentically Cypriot air than the resorts of the southern coast. Fantastic little cafes are open to invite you in for a Cypriot coffee, so just walk around and see the many woodworking shops that are deep within the City, and take a walk down to the Green Line, the boundary that now divides North from South. Being the financial and administrative centre of the island, it is by far the best place for shopaholics.
Get in
By plane
Nicosia International Airport has been closed off since the partition of the country. Larnaca Airport (40km, 30min drive) has scheduled flights to all major European cities. Further afield, the smaller Paphos Airport is a 140km (1h40m) drive from Nicosia.
By boat
Limassol (80km away) and Larnaca (40 km away) ports both have passenger terminals with ferry and cruise ship services to the Lebanon, Israel, Egypt and Greece. Timetables vary considerably with the summer season being the busiest.
By road
Nearly all visitors arrive via the southern highway from Larnaca (43 km) and Limassol (83 km). Regular, cheap and reliable intercity taxi and bus services connect Nicosia to the centre of Cyprus' other cities. Private hire taxis are considerably more expensive. Car hire is also affordable and all major car hire companies are represented at both the afformentioned airports.
Until recently, entry from Northern Cyprus to south Nicosia was close to impossible. However, following a recent thawing in relations, it is now possible for EU citizens to cross the border at official crossing points, regardless of their point of entry to the island. It should be noted however, that this pertains to EU citizens only, and there have been cases of people from other parts of the world being turned back at the crossing point.
Get around
Greater Nicosia sprawls for kilometers on end, but the Old City is small enough to navigate on foot. Traditional Greek Cypriot shops line the streets of the Old City, and with very narrow footpaths/walkways, traffic must always be observed. GPS Satellite navigation systems (see TomTom, Garmin and family) have yet to hear that Cyprus exists, so don't go looking for the Cypriot version. A paper map can be picked up (free of charge!) from the Nicosia CTO (Cyprus Tourism Organisation) Information Office (in Laiki Geitonia) which should more than suffice.
Nicosia is developing a more extensive network of bus services that connect the ever expanding sprawl. Transport is inexpensive, however timetables remain unreliable and only a few buses are airconditioned.
Private taxis abund, they are usually diesel Mercedes cars, and always have a number plate starting with the letter T. Some even have a yellow TAXI (or ΤΑΞΙ in Greek) sign above. Unlike other world cities, they are not in a distinctive colour. Make sure the meter is turned on the second you enter, as tourist expoitation is as common here as everywhere else in the world!
See
Nicosia's sights are concentrated in and around the Old City, surrounded by a picturesque star-shaped city wall whose moat has been converted into a pleasant park. Wandering around the Old City is an interesting experience in itself, although some buildings (esp. those near the Green Line) are derelict and crumbling. Note that many sights in the Old City close early, so try to get an early start - also a good idea for beating the heat in the summer.
Museums
Performance arts
Sport
:The Cyprus National Football team tends to play its home games in Nicosia at the GSP stadium . Recent success on the international scene (a 5-2 thrashing of Ireland and a 1-1 draw with Germany in 2006) have bolstered national pride and made these games quite popular (so advance ticket purchase is advised). Tickets are relatively cheap when compared to European leagues where on average a full price ticket costs less than CYP£15.
Do
Explore the smaller City Streets, small enough to easily do this on foot.
Visit a traditional Cypriot Cafe, and sample a Cypriot Coffee.
Greet the locals. Make sure you visit the green Line and view all of the City from the Watch tower, into both North and South Nicosia.
Cinema
In bygone times Nicosia was dotted with dozens of open air and closed cinemas offering fims from local, Greek, Turkish and Hollywood producers. The advent of the video player and other home entertainment systems has strangled this industry and now only a handful of cinemas remain, none of which are open air. These offer the latest blockbuster movies from hollywood and occasionally the odd arthouse European film. Most will be screened in their original language with Greek subtitles. The annual Cyprus International Film Festival is the local Cannes equivalent. Expect to see great movies, but not the same calibre of stars.
Buy
The traditional shopping district runs along Ledra street and its tributary roads within the medieval walls of the city. A bustle of traditional jewelers, shoe and fabric shops give a blend of Middle Eastern and European feel. Laiki Geitonia is a pedestrianised neighbourhood that has been preserved in its original architecture and is the best quarter if you are after souvenir shops. Big chains (e.g. Marks and Spencer, Zara etc) line the more modern Makarios Avenue. Stasikratous street has evolved into a mini local version of 5th Avenue/Bond street with expensive brands such as Armani and Versace stores. All the above are within walking distance of each other.
There are no real department stores in a purist sense, but Ermes (this chain inherited and re-branded the old local Woolworths) has several mini department stores across the island and a couple on Makarios Avenue. Alpha-Mega and Orphanides are local hypermarket chains (worthy equivalent of a Tesco or Wal-Mart) where it would be difficult not to find what you were after. Most of their stores however, are located in the suburbs.
International newspapers and periodicals (especially in the English language) are widely available but you can inevitably find them at the large kiosks (periptera) planted at the two corners of Eleftheria Square.
Eat
Traditional Cypriot cuisine is a melting pot of south European, Balkan and Middle Eastern influences. You will find most Greek, Turkish and Arabic dishes often with a local name or twist. It is now decades since Cyprus has established itself as a tourist hotspot and as a consequence many of the local chefs have trained in Europe and beyond bringing their experiences back home with them. As such most international cuisines are well represented (but unfortunately so are McDonalds & gang). In summary good food is not difficult to come by and most westerners will find dining quite affordable.
The shopping district is dotted with local tavernas and the likes of KFC and Pizza Hut. Virtually all restaurants allow smoking, (and unfortunately some don't even have a non smoking area). Al fresco dining is a luxury that can be enjoyed for over 6 months of the year. It would be a crime not to try (at least once) a mixed pork kebab with a chilled local KEO or Carlsberg (which is brewed locally and tastes different to the same brand overseas) beer. Carnivores are spoilt for choice, whilst vegetarians might find it a tad difficult.
Budget
Mid-range
Splurge
Drink
The substantial student population supports a flourishing industry of bars, pubs and nightclubs which keep the old city alive. Cypriots are true socialites and spend most of their time out as opposed to at home. In line with other south European countries going out is unheard of before 10-11pm. There is no official nightlife reference point but Makarios avenue turns into a cat walk cum cruising strip for Porsche owner show-offs. If you are after a more traditional flavour (generally catering for an older population) you could try a bouzouki bar.
Bars will stock the usual international brands of spirits. Local giants KEO beer and Carlsberg (the only other brand brewed on the island) have a universal presence. Local wines are now making a comeback after years of medioaracy and decline. Commandaria is the pride of Cyprus' dessert wines. The local spirit zivania (very similar to grappa) is usually drank as shots straight from the freezer. Cyprus brandy was introduced about 150 years ago and differs from other continental brandies in its lower alcohol content (around 32%). As such it is is often drank by locals whilst eating (and before and after) and is the basic ingredient for a local cocktail, The Brandy Sour. Local Ouzo is also another favourite.
Cafes
Coffee culture is a way of life in Nicosia. It is the place to see and be seen in the afternoon to early evening. In the summer months, tables spill on to the streets. The posh cafes line Makarios avenue, intertwined with shops. Starbucks and Costa coffee have invaded the island but local equivalents also survive. For a change don't stick to the latte/capuccino, try a greek coffee. In the summer you must order a frappe (iced coffee).
Bars/Pubs
There is not much of a distinction between the two, most will serve beer, wine, cocktails and non alcoholic beverages. Many will now serve food too, but kitchens usually close earlier than the bar.
Clubs
Sleep
Being more of an administrative city plus the financial hub of the island, hotels tend to cater more for business travelers. Accomodation choice is more limited than the purely touristical destinations that line the coast.
Get out
:For the Italian town, see Nicosia, Sicily
Nicosia, known locally as Lefkosia (Greek: Λευκωσία Turkish: Lefkoşa) is the capital and largest city of Cyprus. It is located at .
Located on the Pedieos(Kanlidere) river and situated roughly in the centre of the island, it is the seat of government as well as the main business centre. Nicosia is the center and capital of an administrative district (Nicosia District) Despite the recent symbolic gestures shown by both communities in removing small sections of the dividing wall, it still remains the only divided capital city in the world , with the northern (Turkish) and southern (Greek) portions divided by the "Green Line", a demilitarized zone maintained by the United Nations, although unlike Cold War East and West Berlin, few use the terms "North Nicosia" and "South Nicosia". After already being segregated to some degree from 1964, the 1974 Turkish invasion cut the capital in half. The Turkish Cypriots the northern half of Nicosia as the capital of the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus (TRNC).
The population of the part of the city under the control of the Republic of Cyprus is 270,000 (end of 2004), while a further 84,893 live in the Turkish zone. Nicosia is a modern, dynamic capital with lots of shops, restaurants and entertainment. The city is a trade center and manufactures textiles, leather, pottery, plastic, and other products. Copper mines are nearby. Nicosia is the seat of the University of Cyprus (UCY) and of all the colleges and institutes of Republic of Cyprus.
History
Nicosia was a city-state known as Ledra or Ledrae in ancient times. The king of Ledra, Onasagoras, was recorded as paying tribute to Esarhaddon of Assyria in 672 BC. Rebuilt by Lefkos, son of Ptolemy I around 300 BC, Ledra in Hellenic and Roman times was a small, unimportant town, also known as Lefkothea. By the time it received its first Christian bishop, Trifillios, in 348, the town was called Lefkousia or Ledri.
Still known as Lefkosia, the city became the island's capital around the 10th century. It had grown in importance because of threats to the coastal cities Paphos and Salamis, which made many people flee to the centrally located Lefkosia.
The seat of the Lusignan kings of Cyprus since 1192, it became a Venetian possession in 1489, and fell to the Ottoman Empire in 1571. Ledra is now the actual name of the most popular commercial street.
The exonym "Nicosia" appeared with the arrival of the Lusignans. The "Frankish" Crusaders either could not, or did not care to, pronounce the name Lefkosia, and tended to say "Nicosia". In this era of the Franks, the city expanded culturally, and in the 15th and 16th centuries, saw the erection of a number of palaces, mansions, churches and monasteries.
Some 20,000 residents died as a result of the Ottoman siege of 1570. Man-made and natural disasters further struck the city during the 19th century. The Turks crushed the 1821 anti-Ottoman revolt in blood.
Cholera hit the city in 1835, and fire destroyed large parts of Nicosia in 1857. The British Empire gained control over the island in 1878, with Nicosia serving as the capital of the new British colony.
Nicosia was the scene of extreme violence in the period just prior to Cypriot independence in 1960. Since the Greek supported coup and Turkish invasion which followed it in 1974, part of the city's northern sector has been inside the boundary of a United Nations Buffer Zone.
The tombs of the Lusignan kings are in the former Cathedral of St. Sophia, now a mosque in the northern sector.
The core of the city also has well-preserved Venetian fortifications, built in the 16th century, which encircle the old, medieval part of the city.
Government
As the capital of the Republic, Nicosia is Cyprus's political, economic and cultural head. Greater Nicosia is subdivided into seven municipalities, but the metropolitan authority is the Municipality of Nicosia itself – within whose boundaries the Constitution states that the main government buildings and headquarters must be suited. The other municipalities in the city are Strovolos, Lakatamia, Latsia, Aglandjia, Engomi and Agios Dhometios.
According to the constitution of Cyprus Nicosia Municipality was divided into a Greek and Turkish sector with two Mayors: a representative of the Greek community which was the majority, and a second one representing the Turkish community. The Mayors and the members of the Council were appointed by the President of the Republic. Since 1986, the Mayors and members of the Council are elected. The Mayor and the Municipal Councilors are elected by direct popular suffrage but into separate ballots – one for the Mayor and the other for all the Councilors. Municipal elections are held every five years.
The Municipality of Nicosia is now headed by the Mayor, who is Eleni Mavrou (former lagilator of the communist party AKEL, supported by her own political party, socialist party EDEK and the Democratic Party and the council comprising of 26 councilors, one of who is Deputy Mayor. The Northern Sector has its own de facto municipality, but that municipality is not internationally recognized because it is part of the non-recognized TRNC.
The Mayor and the Councilors exercise all the powers vested in them by the Municipal Corporation Law. Sub-committees consisting of members of the Municipal Council act only on an advisory level and according to the procedures and regulations issued by the Council.
The Mayor is the executive authority of the Municipality, exercising overall control and managing the Municipal Council. The Council is responsible for appointing personnel employed by the Municipality. All municipalities in the Republic of Cyprus are members of the Union of Cyprus Municipalities. The executive Committee is the governing organ of the Union. This Committee is appointed from among the representatives of the Municipalities, for a term of two and a half years. The Mayor of Nicosia is the President of the Union and the Chairman of the Executive Committee.
Mayors of Nicosia
Pre-Independence (1882-1949)
Post-Independence (1959-Present)
Landmarks
Nicosia lies roughly at the center of the island, with a rich history that can be traced back to the Bronze Age. It only became capital of the island in the 11th century AD. The Lousignians turned it into a magnificent city with a Royal Palace and over fifty churches. Today, it blends its historic past brilliantly with the bustle of a modern city. The heart of the city, enclosed by 16th century Venetian walls, is dotted with museums, ancient churches and medieval buildings preserving the nostalgic atmosphere of years past. Yet this old heart is split in two, leaving Nicosia the only capital city in the world to remain divided by force.
The new Nicosia developed outside the walls became a contemporary business and cultural center. Just a few miles away are enchanting places of interest such as Byzantine churches and monasteries, archaeological sites and charming villages.
The old walled city of Nicosia is unique and definitely the place to head for first. Encircled by strong fortress walls built by the Venetians in the 16th century, the enchanting old city is scattered with buildings and monuments of historical interest as well as little shops, cafés and tavernas.
To walk through the old city is to step backwards in time. Narrow streets and old houses with ornate balconies jut from weather beaten sandstone walls, smell of jasmine flowers in those long summer evenings, and craftsmen in small workshops practice trades unchanged for centuries. 'Laiki Yitonia' - Folk Neighborhood - is a pedestrian section, which has been carefully renovated to evoke the atmosphere of past days. The two main streets of old Nicosia, Ledra and Onasagorou, are lined with shops of every type, and both streets are pedestrian-only.
Although the city has been destroyed more than once by conquerors, there are still enough vestiges to enjoy the past. History is most strikingly experienced at the Venetian city wall, which was built between 1567 and 1570. The 4.5 metres thick wall once had three gates. The Famagusta Gate is now used as a cultural centre. Some other parts of the wall contain administrative offices. The historic heart of the city is clearly found inside the walls, but the modern city has grown beyond.
The heart of the city is Eleftheria (Freedom) Square, with the city hall, the post office and the library. Adjacent Ledra street leads to the most lively part of the old city with narrow streets, boutiques, and cafés. Agia Fanomereni is a church built in 1872, built with the remains of an old castle and a convent. Here lay the remains of the Archbishop and the other Bishops who were killed by the Turks during the 1821 revolt. The Palace of the Archbishop can be found at Arkhiepiskopos Kyprianos Square. Although it appears very old, it is in fact a wonderful imitation of typical Venetian style, built in 1956. Next to the palace is the late gothic St John Cathedral cathedral (1665) with picturesque frescos.
Nicosia is also known for its fine museums. The Archbishop's Palace contains a Byzantine museum where you can admire the largest collection of religious icons on the island. Leventis Municipal Museum Other interesting museums include the Folk Art Museum, National Struggle Museum (witnessing the rebellion against the British administration in the 1950s), Cyprus Ethnological Museum (house of dragoman Hadjigeorgakis Kornesios) and the Handicrafts Centre. The Nicosia Jewels Museum and the Municipal Arts Center are both well worth a visit. The 'Levention' Municipal Museum, with an imaginative presentation of the capital's history, was awarded the title "1991 European Museum of the Year" and it is the only historical museum of Nicosia and revives the old ways of life in the capital from ancient times up to our days.
Not to be missed is the unique Cyprus Museum, housing the island's most important collection of Cypriot antiquities and treasures from the Neolithic Age to the Roman Period. In contrast to these ancient finds is the State Collection of Contemporary Art, and on the other side of town, just off the main Limassol road, is the Cyprus Handicraft Centre.
Another award winner is the city's renovated 'Pyli Ammochostou' - Famagusta Gate - one of the original entrances to the old city, which won the Europa Nostra award for its restoration. Many old churches are to be found in this part of town, and other places of interest.
Professional Sports
Football is the most important sport in Cyprus, and Nicosia is home of two major teams of the island, AC Omonia and APOEL. The two teams dominate the Cypriot Football; Omonia has the record of championships and APOEL the record of the cups. Another team of Nicosia which had success in the past and plays in Cypriot First Division is Olympiakos Nicosia, whereas EN THOI Lakatamia was recenlty moved to the second division. All of these teams play at Neo GSP Stadium, the biggest in Cyprus, with capacity of 23,400. The other big stadium of Nicosia is Makario Stadium with capacity of 16,000 seats.
Omonia and APOEL have their own basketball and volleyball sections. APOEL is successful team in basketball as well, same with another team of the city, Keravnos Strovolos.In athletics the club of Nicosia is Gymnastic Club Pancypria (GSP)-the owner of the football stadium GSP. Also all the teams in the Futsal First Division are from Nicosia. There are also many other clubs in basketball, handball and other sports.
Nicosia hosted the 2000 ISSF World Cup Final about shooting events for the shotgun. Also the town hosted two basketball events; the European Saporta Cup in 1997 and the 2005 FIBA Europe All Star Game in Eleftheria Indoor Hall which is the biggest basketball stadium in Cyprus, with capacity of 6500 seats. Lefkotheo is the volleyball stadium in Nicosia. Both stadiums are the Omonia's and APOEL home. Another sport even which was hosted in Nicosia were the Games of the Small States of Europe in 1989.
Culture
In 2006 the Manifesta Biennale was scheduled to be held in Nicosia for a duration of three months. The project was cancelled, however, with the overseas and local organisers blaming each other for its collapse.
The city also hosted the competition of Miss Universe 2000 in Eleftheria Indoor Hall.
Transportation
Nicosia International Airport has not been used since 1974 as it lies within the U.N. Buffer Zone separating the two parts of Nicosia. The TRNC has an airport to the east of Nicosia called Ercan (Greek: Tymvou), while planes to (Greek) Nicosia land at Larnaca. The Ercan Airport is used only by aeroplanes coming from Turkey since it is considered an illegal airport by the international community.
There are many taxi companies in Nicosia. In order to take a taxi you have to call one of the taxi companies. The taxi will come pick you up from where you are. Besides the taxi companies, there is a taxi rank at the Eleftheria Square (City Centre) where you can find taxis twenty-four hours a day. Taxi fares are regulated by law and taxi drivers are obliged to use a taximeter.
Public transport within the city is limited to an aging and inefficient (but inexpensive) bus network operated by the subsidised Nicosia Bus Company . Currently plans are underway to expand and modernise this with a European Union grant . There is no train or metro system nor plans to develop one.
Between 1905 and 1951, Nicosia was a prominent station of the Cyprus Government Railway.
Twinnings
Collaborations
Famous Nicosians
¹The TRNC is not recognized internationally, but only by Turkey.
Gallery
Image:archbishobic_palace.jpg|Archbishop's Palace, Nicosia
Image:monastiri_nicosia.jpg|The interior of Kykkos Monastery (Metochion Kykkou), Nicosia
Image:monastiri_kipoi.jpg|The gardens of Kykkos Monastery (Metochion Kykkou), Nicosia
Image:municipal_theatre.jpg|Municipal Theatre during Christmas
Image:Makariou_avenue_nicosia.jpg|National Bank of Greece Building, Makariou Avenue, Nicosia
Image:eleftheria_square.jpg|Plateia Eleftherias(Liberty Square),Nicosia
Image:new_courts.jpg|The New Courts, Nicosia
Image:Archi_electrismou.jpg|Cyprus Electricity Authority Building in Nicosia
Image:licavittos_nicosia.jpg|Licavitos, Nicosia
Image:traditional_house_nicosia.jpg|Typical Traditional Architecture, Nicosia
Image:traditional_door_nicosia.jpg|Detail of a Traditional Door, Nicosia
Image:dimotikoi_kipoi.jpg|Municipal Gardens
Image:kipos_sistada.jpg|Palm Trees in the Municipal Gardens
Image:eklisia_palia_poli.jpg|Church in the Old City
Image:palia_poli'.jpg|Restored traditional houses in the Old City
Image:gonia_palia_poli.jpg|Corner in the Old City
Image:green_line.jpg|Ledra Street: the end of the Greek portion of the city of Nicosia
Image:al_fresco_laiki.jpg|Dining al fresco in the so-called Folkloric Area of Nicosia
Image:Kornesios'.jpg|Hadjigeorgakis Kornesios Residence
Image:pyli_ammochostou_lefkosia.jpg|Famagusta Gate (Pyli Ammochostou)
See also
References
External links
