HokkaidÅ (北海é“) is the northernmost of Japan's four main islands.
Understand
Home to Japan's aboriginal Ainu race, Hokkaido continues to represent the untamed wilderness with many great national parks. For many visitors the scenery resembles northern Europe, with rice paddies and concrete warrens replaced by rolling fields and faux-German cottages.
Hokkaido is by far Japan's largest prefecture, consisting of Japan's entire northern island and its surrounding islets. Hokkaido is cooler than the rest of Japan, and the merciful lack of Japan's muggy summers and rainy season makes it a very popular domestic destination between May and August. Some of Hokkaido's inland areas have a continental climate, with large daily and yearly temperature variation.
Most of Hokkaido was settled by the Japanese within the last 100 years, compared to the thousands of years of Japanese history. As a result, its architecture and cities are much more modern, and mostly based on western-like grid layouts.
Regions
Alone among the main Japanese islands Hokkaido is not divided into multiple prefectures. Instead, there are four circuits (é“ dÅ), which are in turn split into subprefectures (æ”¯åº shichÅ).
Cities
Other destinations
National Parks
Get in
The Seikan Tunnel, the world's longest rail tunnel, is the only land link that Hokkaido has to Japan's main island of Honshu. Trains through the tunnel, ferries, and airliners are the only means of reaching Hokkaido. The only way to enter Hokkaido by car is to ship it across on one of the many car ferries.
By plane
Hokkaido's sole international gateway of significance is Sapporo's Chitose Airport. The route to Tokyo is, in terms of capacity and planes flown daily, the busiest in the world.
By train
Hokkaido is not (yet) linked to the Shinkansen high speed network, but night sleeper trains from Tokyo are a popular option.
Another way to access Hokkaido by rail is the Hakucho and Super Hakucho limited express service between Aomori and Hakodate (2 hours, ¥5,340 one way). There are nine trains per day.
When the Seishun 18 Ticket is effective, it can be used on Hakucho limited express trains between Kanita and Kikonai, making it possible to cross between Honshu and Hokkaido for as little as ¥2,000. However, because of the scarcity of local trains around Aomori and Hakodate, scheduling such a trip can be a bit of a hassle.
By ferry
Ferries are mostly popular among people bringing their own cars to Hokkaido.
Get around
Hokkaido is vast in size, so allow plenty of time to get around and don't try to do too much if your time is limited. Many Japanese maps (including the generally excellent Japan Road Atlas) show Hokkaido with a larger scale than the rest of the country, which may make distances appear deceptively small.
By plane
Due to its vast size and numerous outlying islands, Hokkaido has a fairly well-developed commuter airline network. The main regional carriers are JAL subsidiary Hokkaido Air Commuter and ANA subsidiary Air Nippon (now operating in its parent's livery). Many turboprop flights operate out of the tiny Okadama Airport in central Sapporo.
By train
The train network in Hokkaido is (by Japanese standards) limited, although it's more than adequate for travel between major cities. However, access to many of the more interesting sites, such as Hokkaido's many national parks, will require either relying on infrequent and expensive buses, renting your own car, or trying your luck at hitchhiking.
Some convenient express trains include the Hokuto and Super Hokuto between Sapporo and Hakodate (3.5 hours, ¥8,590 each way); the Super White Arrow between Sapporo and Asahikawa (1.5 hours, ¥4,680 each way); the Tokachi between Sapporo and Obihiro (3 hours, ¥7,920 each way); the Super Oozora between Sapporo and Kushiro (4 hours, ¥9,120 each way); and the Super Soya, Sarobetsu, and Rishiri between Sapporo and Wakkanai (5.5 hours, ¥10,170 each way).
JR offers a special Hokkaido Pass , separate from the Japan Rail Pass, which allows the bearer to ride all JR trains in Hokkaido, as well as most JR buses.
By bus
A cheaper if slower and less comfortable option than the train is using buses, which also cover all the areas not accessible by train. Sleeper services radiate from Sapporo to most corners of the island. Note that local bus schedules can be very sparse, so check them carefully to avoid being stranded.
By bike
Hokkaido is a cycling paradise from April to September. There are many bike paths and most main roads have very wide sidewalks. Also there are many beautiful back roads to get you where you want to go. Information in English is very limited, the best way is to buy a good map and plan by yourself.
By thumb
Hitchhiking is a viable option in Hokkaido, and due to the limitations of the public transport network it's not unheard of to see Japanese with their thumb out (a very rare sight in the rest of the country). The major caveats are that even private car traffic can be minimal on some roads, and for half the year the weather is too cold for comfort or safety.
See also: Hitchhiking in Japan
See & Do
For many visitors Hokkaido's numerous National Parks are number one on the agenda, offering near-unlimited hiking opportunities.
Hokkaido's other major attractions are flower gardens, high-quality agriculture and seafood, hot springs, and powder skiing.
Eat
Much of Hokkaido's population lives by the sea, and consequently seafood figures heavily in Hokkaido fare. Check out the hairy crabs (毛蟹 kegani) and the delicious sushi. Akkeshi's oysters, Saroma's scallops, and the northwest coast's sea urchin (uni) are considered to be among Japan's very best seafood.
More unexpectedly, Hokkaido produces most of Japan's dairy products and particularly in the east you will run into many creative uses for them. Ever had cream cheese in your curry, or butter in your noodle soup? How about asparagus, corn, or squid ink ice cream? In Hokkaido, you will.
Drink
Hokkaido is home to some of Japan's finest sakes, the most famous of the bunch being Asahikawa's Otokoyama (ç”·å±±). Beer is also big in Hokkaido, the most famous brand being Sapporo Beer (naturally from Sapporo), but the many microbrews found in nearly every town are also worth sampling.
Sleep
Hokkaido is one of Japan's best places for camping, but beware of the nighttime chill - even in the summer months you'll need a good sleeping bag. In particular, the southwest coast can be surprisingly cold, due to the ocean currents.
Many of Hokkaido's cheaper accommodations slap on an extra fee for winter heating (冬期暖房 tÅki danbÅ), as Japanese houses even in the north are notoriously poorly insulated and chew up vast quantities of fuel when the temperatures fall. This shouldn't be more than ¥500 or so.
If you are coming for the mountains, be sure to stay in one of the many mountain huts (å±±å°å±‹ yamagoya) in Hokkaido. Most are free, and they're both a cheap sleep and a good cultural experience. You'll be sure to make Japanese friends as well.
Stay safe
Hokkaido has the worst fatality rate for traffic accidents in Japan. Hokkaido is one of Japan's most spread-out areas, well-known for its wide-open roads. Locals drive at least 20 kph over the posted limits in many areas. It's not unusual to see cars traveling at over 100 kph on regular highways (the posted limit is 60 kph). Head-on collisions in Japanese cars at these speeds, especially with minicars, are catastrophic.
Hokkaido has many country farm roads which are narrow, poorly marked, and arrow-straight. These often run parallel to highways and tend to be much less crowded. It's not unusual for locals to exceed 100 kph on these roads. Missing a stop sign can be fatal, and signs may be hard to spot. Be careful of farm vehicles backing out of sheds with no warning, and especially careful of bicycles in the summer, as there are no shoulders.
Winter driving in Hokkaido is not for the faint of heart. Very little sand or salt is used on the roads, and the heavy snow in many areas means that the roadways turn into packed snow, then solid ice. This also means that the road markings will be totally invisible. Look for overhanging center line (ä¸å¤®ç·š chÅ«osen) signs above the roads at intersections. Highways have arrow signs pointing downward at the shoulders of the road, which will also be invisible. Winter tires are mandatory. Chains are recommended for mountain driving. Because speeds are lower, there are less fatalities, but there are more accidents in the winter. If you have never driven in the winter, do not attempt to learn here.
The Hokkaido fox carries the echinococcus parasite, which can be fatal in humans. Because this parasite can be spread through water, do not drink any unboiled river or lake water in Hokkaido. Approaching or feeding foxes is also not recommended. (Feeding wildlife is also illegal.)
, formerly known as Ezo, Yezo, Yeso, or Yesso, is Japan's second largest island and the largest of its 47 prefectural level subdivisions. The Tsugaru Strait separates HokkaidŠfrom Honshū, although the two islands are connected by the underwater Seikan Tunnel. The largest city on HokkaidŠis its capital, Sapporo, which is also its only ordinance-designated city.
History
The Nihonshoki is often said to be the first mention of HokkaidÅ in recorded history. According to the text, Abe no Hirafu led a large navy and army to northern areas from 658 to 660 and came into contact with the Mishihase and Emishi. One of the places Hirafu went to was called Watarishima, which is often believed to be present-day HokkaidÅ. However, many theories exist in relation to the details of this event, including the location of Watarishima and the common belief that the Emishi in Watarishima were the ancestors of the present-day Ainu.
During the Nara and Heian periods, people in HokkaidÅ conducted trade with Dewa Province, an outpost of the Japanese central government. From the medieval ages, the people in HokkaidÅ began to be called Ezo. Around the same time HokkaidÅ came to be called Ezochi or Ezogashima. The Ezo mainly relied upon hunting and fishing and obtained rice and iron through trade with the Japanese.
During the Muromachi period, the Japanese created a settlement at the south of the Oshima peninsula. As more people moved to the settlement to avoid battles, disputes arose between the Japanese and the Ainu. The disputes eventually developed into a battle. Takeda Nobuhiro killed the Ainu leader and established a Japanese victory. Nobuhiro's descendants became the rulers of the Matsumae Han, which ruled the south of Ezochi until the end of the Edo period.
The Matsumae Han's economy relied upon trade with the Ainu. The Matsumae family was granted exclusive trading rights with the Ainu in the Azuchi-Momoyama and Edo periods. The Han gradually changed trade conditions so they came to favor Japanese merchants. As a result, some Ainu rebelled against the Matsumae han, but the rebellions were defeated. During the Meiji Restoration, the Tokugawa Shogunate realized there was a need to prepare northern defenses against Russian aggressions and took over most control of Ezochi. The Shogunate made the Ainu burden slightly easier, but did not change the overall form of rule.
HokkaidÅ was known as Ezochi until the Meiji Restoration. Shortly after the Boshin War in 1868, a group of Tokugawa loyalists led by Enomoto Takeaki proclaimed the island's independence as the Republic of Ezo, but the rebellion was crushed in May 1869. Ezochi was subsequently put under control of Hakodate-Fu (箱館府, Hakodate Prefectural Government). When establishing the Development Commission (開拓使), the Meiji Government decided to change the name of Ezochi. Matsuura TakeshirÅ submitted 6 ideas, including names such as Kaihokudo (海北é“) and HokkaidÅ (åŒ—åŠ ä¼Šé“) to the government. The government eventually decided to use the name HokkaidÅ, but decided to write it as 北海é“, as a compromise between æµ·åŒ—é“ and because of the similarity with names such as TÅkaidÅ (æ±æµ·é“). According to Matsuura, the name was thought up because the Ainu called the region "Kai." Historically, many peoples who had interactions with the ancestors of the Ainu called them and their islands Kuyi, Kuye, Qoy, or some similar name, which may have some connection to the early modern form Kai. The Kai element also strongly resembles the Sino-Japanese reading of the characters è¦å¤· (Sino-Japanese /ka-i/, Japanese kun /emisi/), which have been used for over a thousand years in China and Japan as the standard orthographic form to be used when referring to Ainu and related peoples; it is possible that Matsuura's Kai was actually an alteration, influenced by the Sino-Japanese reading of è¦å¤· Ka-i, of the Nivkh exonym for the Ainu, namely Qoy. In 1882, the Development Commission was abolished, and HokkaidÅ was separated into three prefectures, Hakodate (函館県), Sapporo (æœå¹ŒçœŒ), and Nemuro (æ ¹å®¤çœŒ). In 1886, the three prefectures were abolished, and HokkaidÅ was put under the HokkaidÅ Agency (北海é“åº). HokkaidÅ became equal with other prefectures in 1947, when the revised Local Autonomy Law became effective. The Japanese central government established the Hokkaido Development Agency (北海é“開発åº) as an agency of the Prime Minister's Office in 1949 to maintain its executive power in Hokkaido. The Agency was absorbed by the Ministry of Land, Infrastructure and Transport in 2001. The Hokkaido Bureau of the Ministry still has a strong influence on public construction projects in Hokkaido.
Geography
The island of HokkaidŠis located at the north end of Japan, near Russia, and has coastlines on the Sea of Japan, the Sea of Okhotsk, and the Pacific Ocean. The center of the island has a number of mountains and volcanic plateaus, and there are coastal plains in all directions. Major cities include Sapporo and Asahikawa in the central region and the port of Hakodate facing Honshū.
The governmental jurisdiction of HokkaidÅ incorporates several smaller islands, including Rishiri, Okushiri Island, and Rebun. (By Japanese reckoning, HokkaidÅ also incorporates several of the Kuril Islands.) Because the prefectural status of HokkaidÅ is denoted by the dÅ in its name, it is rarely referred to as "HokkaidÅ Prefecture," except when necessary to distinguish the governmental entity from the island.
The island ranks 21st in the world by area. It is 3.6% smaller than the island of Ireland while Hispaniola is 6.1% smaller than HokkaidÅ. By population it ranks 20th, between Ireland and Sicily. HokkaidÅ's population is 4.7% less than that of the island of Ireland, and Sicily's is 12% lower than HokkaidÅ's.
Seismic activity
Like the rest of Japan, HokkaidÅ is seismically active. Aside from numerous earthquakes, the following volcanoes are still considered active (at least one eruption since 1850):
An earthquake of magnitude 8.0 struck near the island on 2003-09-25 at 19:50:07 (UTC). In 1993, an earthquake of magnitude 7.8 generated a tsunami which devastated Okushiri, killing 202.
National Parks and quasi-national parks
There are still many undisturbed forests in HokkaidÅ, including:
Before the current politicial divisions and after 1869, HokkaidÅ was divided into provinces. See Former Provinces of HokkaidÅ.
Climate
HokkaidÅ is known for its cool summers and icy winters. The average August temperature is around 22°C (72°F), while the average January temperature ranges from −12°C to −4°C (10°F to 25°F) depending on elevation and latitude. The island tends to see isolated snowstorms that develop long-lasting snowbanks, in contrast to the constant flurries seen in the Hokuriku region.
Unlike the other major islands of Japan, HokkaidÅ is normally not affected by the June-July rainy season and the relative lack of humidity and typically warm, rather than hot, summer weather makes its climate an attraction for tourists from other parts of Japan.
In winter, the generally high quality of powder snow and numerous mountains in HokkaidÅ make it one of Japan's most popular regions for snow sports. The snowfall usually commences in earnest in November and ski resorts (such as those at Niseko, Furano and Rusutsu) usually operate between December and April.
During the winter, passage through the Sea of Okhotsk is often complicated by large ice floes broken loose from the Kamchatka Peninsula. Combined with high winds that occur during winter, this brings air travel and maritime activity almost to a halt on the northern coast of HokkaidÅ.
Major cities and towns
HokkaidÅ's largest city is the capital, Sapporo. Other major cities include Hakodate in the south and Asahikawa in the central region. Other important population centers include Kushiro, Obihiro, Abashiri, Nemuro.
Hokkaido has the highest rate of depopulation in Japan. In 2000, 152 (71.7%) of Hokkaido's 212 municipalities were shrinking. Total shrinking municipalities in Japan in the same year were the 1,171.
Economy
HokkaidÅ is Japan's predominant agricultural area. It leads the country in the production of rice and fish, and shares the lead in vegetable farming.
Although there is some light industry (most notably paper milling, brewing (Sapporo beer), and food production), most of the population is employed by the service sector. Tourism is an important industry, especially during the cool summertime that attracts campers and hot spring-goers from across Japan. During the winter, skiing and other winter sports continue to bring tourists to HokkaidÅ (the Winter Olympics were held in Sapporo in 1972).
Transportation
HokkaidÅ's only land link to the rest of Japan is the Seikan Tunnel. Most travelers to the island arrive by air: the main airport is New Chitose Airport in Chitose, just south of Sapporo. Tokyo-Chitose is the world's busiest air route, handling 45 widebody round trips on four airlines each day. One of the airlines, Air Do was named after HokkaidÅ. HokkaidÅ can also be reached by ferry from Sendai, Niigata and some other cities.
Within HokkaidÅ, there is a fairly well-developed railway network (see HokkaidÅ Railway Company), but many cities can only be accessed by bus or car.
Education
The HokkaidÅ Prefectural Board of Education oversees public schools in HokkaidÅ. The board directly operates public high schools. has a list of public high schools in Japanese.
In popular culture
Sports
The sports teams listed below are based in Hokkaido.
Soccer
Baseball
Ice Hockey
Town twinning
Hokkaido has relationships with several provinces, states, and other entities worldwide.
External links
References
Much of the content of the history section in this article comes from the 2005-05-10 version of the HokkaidÅ article, :ja:北海é“, at the Japanese-language Wikipedia.
