WORLDASIAINDONESIASENGGIGI


Senggigi is a town in Lombok, Indonesia.

Understand

Senggigi is the main tourist strip of Lombok, stretched out along nearly 10 kilometers of beachfront just to the north of the capital Mataram.

Senggigi can be broadly divided into three parts: northern Mangsit Beach, central Senggigi and the southern stretch near Batu Bolong, with headlands separating the three. Mangsit has quiet resorts and very little other development, while nightlife and other restaurants are concentrated in Senggigi and the Batu Bolong area.

That said, Lombok's post-2000 misfortunes hit Senggigi hardest of all, with many developments halted and a few closed and barred up. Especially during the day the area resembles a ghost town, with many if not most shops closed, restaurants empty and hawkers and touts pestering the (few) passersby. Things are slowly starting to improve again, with a few new villas going up, but for time being the overall feeling is a little depressing and most visitors either stay in the manicured grounds of their resorts, or head directly onward to the Gili Islands.

Get in

Senggigi is about 15-20 minutes north of Mataram and its airport. Taxis charge around Rp 30,000 for the trip, while bemos will cover the distance for under Rp 5,000.

If you are frugal or intrepid and take the slow ferry from Bali, it's best to arrange transport in advance from the ferry dock to Senggigi, since the dock on the Lombok side is in a remote spot several kilometers south of Mataram. Travel agents on Bali offer transport from any point in southern Bali to Seggigi, including the ferry ticket, for about Rp 140,000.

Get around

Taxis are common and even the ones waiting around for customers are usually happy to use the meter. Bemos also zip through Senggigi on their way north and south and are happy to pick up passengers; pricing is a little random, but a couple of thousand rupiah will suffice for most trips.

Guys with carts and miniature horses wait around town and outside the upscale hotels, looking hopefully at every tourist who passes. They will happily carry you to or from your hotel, or as far as Pura Batu Bolong. Rock-bottom price is difficult to determine, since you feel guilty bargaining them down, but a short ride can easily be had for 10,000 to 15,000 rupiah.

See


  • Pura Batu Bolong, 2 km south of Senggigi. Small Hindu temple located in a scenic spot at a cape overlooking Senggigi beach, named after a rock (batu) with a hole (bolong). At the tip is an empty chair representing Brahma, the god of creation. Free entry, but you'll have to loan a sash (Rp5,000 a throw) from one of the urchins if you don't have one already. Sunsets seen from here can be very impressive.

  • Senggigi Beach. A spit of sand stretching out from central Senggigi, this is Senggigi's raison d'etre but, by Indonesian standards, it's not all that spectacular. The beach is a little dirty, the hawkers are a nuisance and the Senggigi Beach Resort has grabbed most of the land. Some local surfers brave the smallish waves.


  • Buy


    Lombok-style woodenware, decorated with local creatures and geometrical patterns in shades of black, brown and red, is sold in several shops in town. The tall masks are quite distinctive, though potentially difficult to get on the plane home. Boxes and bowls are also numerous. It's not as intricate and refined as Balinese arts, but it has a distinctive look and charm, and is quite inexpensive.

    Persistent hawkers push Komodo freshwater pearls on tourists, and will follow you for the length of the town. The pearls are quite pretty as costume jewelry, and make nice gifts or souvenirs, but the hawkers play on a misunderstanding of their market value. They will often quote a starting price of around Rp 300,000 (more than US$30) for a strand, though they can be had for as little as Rp 35,000. Pearls for sale on the street tend to be the left-overs of the industry, with more flaws and variations in shape. Longer strands cost more. Better quality strands (rounder, more uniform pearls with fewer flaws) ought to cost more, though the hawkers seem not very sensitive regarding quality and will let you pretty much pick the one you want.

    If you lose your watch or sunglasses, never fear. Street vendors are always at hand to provide a replacement.
  • Senggigi Square.

  • Senggigi Plaza.


  • Eat

    There are plenty of eating options in Senggigi, with a surprising array of Western-style dished on the menu. Alas, local chefs are often better with the names than the recipes for Western favorites, and seem to follow a philosophy of "when in doubt, add more butter." Guys will follow you along the street offering business cards, 10% discounts, and free "cocktails" to draw you in. Beware of discount offers, and before you bite, ask if VAT and service will be added to the bill. A promised 10% discount can quickly become a 10% surcharge after they hit you with tax and service.

    Mid-range
  • Bale Tajuk, Jl. Senggigi Raya. Small but popular eatery offering a range of local and Western dishes, including a fairly decent Lombok-style ayam taliwang (Rp20,000).


  • Splurge
  • Ye Jeon, Senggigi Square 2F. Surprisingly authentic Korean restaurant, especially given that it's probably the only one in all Lombok. Single dishes are reasonable (try the bibimbap, Rp35,000) but sets with a full spread of banchan appetizers are pricier at Rp80,000 and up, with 21% service/tax slapped on top.

  • Sheraton Senggigi, about 100 meters up the road from town. Prices about double the restaurants in town, but quite reasonable for a four-star resort, and quite good.


  • Drink

    Senggigi's nightlife suffers from far more supply than demand, with punters thinly spread and bars desperate for custom.

    Sleep

    Mid-range
  • Puri Mas Beach Resort, Mangsit, tel. +62-370-693831, . Built in 1988 by a ballroom-dancing Dutchman, this small beachside resort has 17 cottages set in a lush Balinese garden packed with statues. Each thatched-roof cottage has air-con, mosquito nets and funky hot-water showers. Beautifully located beachfront restaurant and bar, although the food is mediocre. Published rates from US$50 but off-season discounts go as low as US$32 with transfers and breakfast, great value even by Indonesian standards.


  • Splurge
  • Holiday Resort Lombok, Senggigi Beach, Tel. +62-370-693444, Fax +62-370-693092, 693206, E-mail: reservationmgr@Holidayresort-lombok.com. Rates: US$80-180/night.

  • Qunci Villa, Mangsit Beach, Tel. +62-370-693800, Fax +62-370-693802, email: stay@quncivillas.com. A small resort where the staffs know and greet you by your first name. A nice medium size swimming pool which looks as if it is part of the sea. The room does not have TV, in order to 'detach' the guests from the outside world. The restaurant serve very good food at reasonable price, and dinner can be enjoyed directly on the beach. Rates: US$70-90.

  • Sheraton Senggigi, Jl. Raya Senggigi Km.8, tel. +62-370-693333, . Senggigi's swankiest resort. Published rates from US$100 per night, but rooms in the unrenovated wing might be available for 20-30% less on the Sheraton website. Nice pool and gardens typical of four-star resort, but potentially less sticker-shock than usual. While a sunset cocktail will typically cost almost US$10 with tax and service at a fancy resort in Bali, the Sheraton Senggigi had (fall 2006) a half-price happy hour where you could get one for about $3.50.


  • Get out
  • Take a boat to the Gili Islands.

  • Senggigi is the main tourist strip of the Indonesian island of Lombok, stretched out along the several kilometers of the beachfront, just to the north of the capital Mataram. The site of a building frenzy in the late 1990s when Lombok was hyped to be the next Bali, the communal violence of 2000 and the 2002 Bali bombing dealt Senggigi a severe blow, with tourist numbers declining precipitously and many construction projects halted.

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