Alexandria (الإسكندرية al-Iskanderiyya), Egypt's second largest city (after the capital Cairo) and the country's window on the Mediterranean Sea, is a faded shade of its former glorious cosmopolitan self, but still worth a visit for its many cultural attractions and memories of a glorious past. Alexandria nonetheless remains an important city, as Egypt's chief seaport on the Mediterranean and a home to at least 3.5 million Egyptians.
Understand
History
Sic transit gloria mundi - Alexandria was the eponymous foundation (in 334 BCE) of the Macedonian conquerer Alexander the Great (Iskander al-Akbar), a rival of Rome in its heyday, and the world's greatest center of learning for millennia... now a dusty seaside Egyptian town with an over-inflated population of 5 million. The French-style parks and the occasional French street sign survive as a legacy of Napoleon, one of Alexandria's many conquerors. But the final blow came when Gamal Abdel Nasser nationalized most of Alexandria's Greek-owned businesses, leading to an exodus of 50,000 Greeks from the country - but the few remaining Greek restaurants and cafés still dominate the cultural scene.
Orientation
Alexandria's primary promenade is the seaside Corniche. At the western tip lies the fort of Qait Bey, built near the presumed site of the former Lighthouse (Pharos in Greek), one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, while the eastern shore sprawls for miles on end with the slums and tenements of modern Alex.
General Information
Weather
Hot, dry summers with mild, dry winters and cold nights. Rainfall is negligible except on the coast. In April, the hot, dusty Khamsin wind blows from the Sahara.
Lightweight cottons and linens during summer, with warmer clothes for winter and cooler evenings.
Get in
By plane
The small Alexandria Airport (ALY) is served by occasional domestic flights, and two times a week from Athens on Olympic Airlines. Lufthansa also operates direct flights from Frankfurt. The airport lies 8km/5 miles to the south east of the city. A taxi will take you 15-20 minutes and should cost no more than 40LE. Drivers always prefer to paid in sterling or in US dollars.
The equally small Borg el Arab Airport (HBE) is some 60km/38 miles to the south west of Alexandria taking about 40-45 minutes by taxi, which should cost you no more than 100LE. Borg El Arab (HBE), has replaced El Nouzha airport as the main international airport for Alexandria. As always, agree the price before you get in the cab. British Airways fly to Borg el Arab from London Heathrow on Saturday, Sunday, Monday and Thursday, with flights arriving at around 20:20. They do fly on other days via Beirut. Travellers from outside the UK can connect easily in London. Emirates will also fly you in via Dubai. BA prices start around £300 from the UK and Emirates from £330 return.
Luxor Airport (LXR) is 5.5km (3.5 miles) from Luxor. To/from the airport: There is a regular bus service to the city center (travel time – 15 minutes). Special limousine and local taxi services are available. Facilities: Car hire, bank and exchange services, and a bar and restaurant. Improvement works have taken place and are expected to continue to meet the increasing flow of tourists.
It should be noted that most travellers will come via Cairo, the country's capital. Flights to Cairo are more frequent and much cheaper. The national flag-carrier Egyptair will fly you onwards to Alexandria or Borg el Arab. Many, however, prefer the cheaper and less stressful option of the coach.
From Cairo to London is four hours 45 minutes (from Luxor to London is five hours 35 minutes), from Cairo to Los Angeles is 16 hours 40 minutes, to New York is 14 hours 25 minutes, to Singapore is 12 hours 35 minutes, and to Sydney is 20 hours.
By train
Frequent trains from Cairo's railway station on Midan Ramses are probably the best way to get to Alexandria. Trains run at least once every hour from 6 AM to 10 PM, but try to choose either an express or the pride of Egyptian Railways, the French-built Turbo, which takes only 2 hours 10 minutes for the journey. 1st/2nd class tickets LE 25/20 one-way. Some trains (mostly slow ordinary ones) also continue on to Port Said.
Trains to Cairo depart from the aptly named Cairo Station, a 10-minute stroll south of the Corniche along Nabi Daniel St.
By car
There are two options when travelling by car, either taking the Agriculture road, which has various farms surrounding its sides, or the Desert road, which as the name implies, is through the desert with only some cafeterias and local peasants located on both sides every couple of kilometers.
The journey usually takes around 3 hours, depending on speed and surrounding traffic
It should be noted, though, that driving in Egypt is not advisable unless absolutely necessary!
By bus
Taking the bus from Cairo to Alexandria is by far the most cost effective and comfortable way of transfering. Several bus companies offer the service which travels 224km/139 miles. The price, however, is well worth it: about 35LE (compared to a 100LE air fare), which converts to about $5.50. Buses are air conditioned and come complete with a hostess trolley service. Companies include Golden Arrow, West Delta and the larger firm, Pullman. Buses leave Alexandria in the mornings between 7:15am and 8:30am, although Pullman do now offer at 5.00pm service as well.
By boat
The main coastal ports are Alexandria, Nuweiba, Port Said and Suez. The Saudi Sea Transport Company runs a regular car ferry service between Suez and Jeddah. A ferry service usually travels twice per week up the Nile between Wadi Halfa (Sudan) and Egypt High Dam; it departs from High Dam on Saturday and Wadi Halfa on Tuesday. However, it is occasionally suspended. For further information, contact the Nile Valley Association (tel: (2) 578 9256). There is also a ferry service that operates twice-daily between South Sinai and Aqaba (Jordan). There are special rates for children under 12 and under three years of age. For more information, contact the Cairo Navigation Agency (tel: (2) 574 5755 or 575 5568). Many cruise ships stop over in Egypt as part of their African itinerary.
Get around
By Taxi
Alexandria's yellow-black taxis are a good way to travel inside Alex, and a cheap one as well. Be careful, taxi drivers here love to take advantage of non-Alexandrians. Some drivers will try to negotiate the price before you drive anywhere, but most won't. No taxi ride between any two points in the city should cost more than 15LE.
By tram
Alexandria has a creaky, slow but very cheap tram system that dates back to 1860 and looks the part. There are nine lines, mostly running parallel to the coast; the yellow line to Ras el-Tin is particularly useful for traveling to Fort Qait Bey. The flat fare is a whopping 15 piasters and the trip across town will take a bare minimum of 45 minutes. Note that the middle car (out of three) in each interurban (blue) tram is reserved for women only.
See
Attraction type: Historic site At Ras el-Tin at the western tip of Alex, take the yellow tram to get there. Admission LE 6.
Attraction type: History museum
Bring a flashlight, a camera, and shoes that can get muddy.
Attraction type: Ancient ruins; Monument
Attraction type: History museum
Attraction type: Wharf/pier/boardwalk
Attraction type: Ancient ruins
Do
The Red Sea coast and the Gulf of Aqaba are deservedly popular among divers, owing to their rich marine life and shipwrecks. A large variety of coral, tiny florescent fish, giant turtles, Napoleon wrasse and nurse sharks are just some of the species inhabiting the area. The main dive centers are on the Sinai Peninsular at Sharm el-Sheikh and Ras Muhammad, a national park since 1983. Equipment may be hired and training is available for all levels of ability. Near Sharm el-Sheikh, there is a famous World War II wreck, the SS Thistlegorm and the nearby Straits of Tirian host spectacular offshore reefs, as well as two more wrecks. Live-aboard packages are available from some operators. Conditions vary according to the time of year: in February and March, the extra plankton in the water attracts manta rays and in November and December, the visibility is particularly good. A twice-weekly tour for E£5 can be taken to four islands in the Red Sea, namely Abou Kizan, The Emerald, The Rocky Island and The Two Brothers. For further information, see the Where to Go section or contact the Egyptian State Tourist Office (see General Info section).
The Red Sea coral reefs are all protected by law and persons removing ‘souvenirs’ will incur heavy fines.
There are numerous cruise steamers on the Nile, the majority of which provide a very high standard of service. Vessels usually carry between 50 and 100 passengers, with the facilities varying according to the size of the individual vessel. Contacting a specialist operator is recommended for choosing a Nile cruise. Normally visitors can only book the complete package through a tour operator. Traditional feluccas may also be chartered. For further information, see Nile Cruises in the Where to Go section or contact the Egyptian State Tourist Office (see General Info section).
Tennis, croquet and horseriding clubs are found in both Alexandria and Cairo. For details, ask at the hotel. There is a public golf club at the foot of the Giza pyramids and there is a Gary Player course at Soma Bay on the Red Sea. Most courses either adjoin or are part of hotels; for instance, the Mena House , which is 15 minutes from Cairo. Other courses include the Alexandria Sporting Club (30 minutes from Alexandria); Jolie Ville (five minutes from Sharm el-Sheikh); Royal Valley Golf Course (25 minutes from Luxor); The Steigenberger Golf Club (30 minutes from Hurghada). The Egyptian State Tourist Office can provide further information (see General Info section).
Learn
Alexandria has a tiny industrial section, mainly centered around the natural gas industry. A few expatriates work in this section. Other than that, there are some but not many international schools that employ expatriate teachers. Generally they pay less than the much more lucrative educational section in Cairo.
Social Conventions
Islam is the dominant influence and many traditional customs and beliefs are tied up with religion. The people are generally courteous and hospitable and expect similar respect from visitors. Shaking hands will suffice as a greeting. Because Egypt is a Muslim country, dress should be conservative and women should not wear revealing clothes, particularly when in religious buildings and in towns (although the Western style of dress is accepted in modern nightclubs, restaurants, hotels and bars in Cairo, Alexandria and other tourist destinations). Official or social functions and smart restaurants usually require more formal wear. Smoking is very common.
Buy
Winter: Tues, Wed, Fri and Sat 0900-1900, Mon and Thurs 0900-2000. During Ramadan, hours vary, with shops often closing on Sunday. Summer: Tues, Wed, Fri-Sun 0900-1230 and 1600-2000.
Eat
Egyptian cuisine is excellent, combining many of the best traditions of Middle Eastern cooking, and there are both large hotel restaurants and smaller specialist ones throughout the main towns. Some of the larger hotels in Cairo and its environs have kitchens serving top quality cosmopolitan dishes. In the center of Cairo, American-style snack bars are also spreading. Restaurants have waiter service. Although Egypt is a Muslim country, alcohol is available in cafe-style bars and good restaurants. The legal drinking age is 21.
National specialties:
• Foul (bean dishes).
• Stuffed vine leaves.
• Roast pigeon.
• Grilled aubergines.
• Kebabs.
• Humus (chickpeas).
National drinks:
• Kahwa (thick, strong coffee).
• Shay bil na'na' (mint tea).
• Karkaday (clear, bright red drink made from hibiscus flowers).
• Aswanli (dark beer made in Aswan).
• Zibib (alcoholic aniseed-flavored drink).
Tipping: 10 to 12 per cent is added to hotel and restaurant bills but an extra tip of 5 per cent is normal. Taxi drivers generally expect 10 per cent.
Drink
Bars and Nightclubs
Visitors to Alexandria often complain that it can be hard to find a decent drinking venue in the city - what a change from the bars and nightclubs that used to fill the city before and after the war....! Even so, frequent travellers do recommend a number of reliable establishments:
Cafés
Hotels
*It's worth seeing a place around this time for two reasons: First,
you'll get a better impression of how well the lighting works, and second,
you'll be able to see the worst of any insect problems. It's highly unlikely
to find any accommodation near the coast that is completely 'roach-free', so please
bear this in mind!
Mid-range
Splurge
Stay safe
Street kids harass tourists with offers to sell bango (marijuana) and nimble fingers probing pockets. They will usually desist after a stern La! or two.
Although almost every traveler in Egypt has a safe visit, a bus in Cairo was blown up on April 30, 2005, killing three tourists. Travelers are advised to avoid political gatherings and demonstrations.
The recent bombings in Sharm el-Sheikh has, with some understanding, caused much worry to those travelling to Egypt. Since the 1997 masacre of tourists at Queen Hatshepasut's Temple in Luxor (a tragedy where the finger was squarely pointed at the security services) visitor protection has been greatly improved. In fact, it is not uncommon for tourists travelling by road to recieve an armed escort, especially in the presence of women and children. Tourism is much the life blood of Egypt and it seems that they have properly woken up to this by offering such reassurance.
In Alexandria, crime is perhaps as bad as anywhere else in Egypt: only really found where invited. Therefore, a few rules of thumb should see anyone through:
Never wear a bum-bag/fanny-pack - it only advertises the fact your valuables to the world.
Keep valuables out of sight where possible.
While Alexandria is one of the more westernised cities in a moderate Muslim country women are still advised to cover their shoulders, midrifs, cleavage and legs above the knee. This works in both parties favour: you won't recieve undue attention while remaining respectful to the religion and culture of others. It's also advisable to cover your head when entering places of worship.
Get out
Alexandria City Guide
Alexandria (Greek: , Coptic: , Arabic: الإسكندريه , Egyptian Arabic: اسكندريه Eskendereyya), (population of 3.5 to 5 million), is the second-largest city in Egypt, and its largest seaport. Alexandria extends about 20 miles (32 km) along the coast of the Mediterranean sea in north-central Egypt. It is home to the Bibliotheca Alexandrina, the New Library of Alexandria, and is an important industrial centre because of its natural gas and oil pipelines from Suez.
In ancient times, the city was known for the Lighthouse of Alexandria (one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World), the Library of Alexandria (the largest library in the ancient world) and the Catacombs of Kom el Shoqafa (one of the Seven Wonders of the Middle Ages). Ongoing maritime archaeology in the harbour of Alexandria (which began in 1994) is revealing details of Alexandria both before the arrival of Alexander, when a city named Rhakotis existed there, and during the Ptolemaic dynasty.
History
The city of Alexandria was named after its founder, Alexander the Great, and as the seat of the Ptolemaic rulers of Egypt, quickly became one of the greatest cities of the Hellenistic world — second only to Rome in size and wealth. However, upon the founding of Cairo by Egypt's medieval Islamic rulers, its status as the country's capital ended, and fell into a long decline, which by the late Ottoman period, had seen it reduced to little more than a small fishing village. The current city is Egypt's leading port, a commercial and transportation center, and the heart of a major industrial area where refined petroleum, asphalt, cotton textiles, processed food, paper, plastics and styrofoam are produced.
Foundation
Alexandria was founded by Alexander the Great in 331 BC (the exact date is disputed) as (Aleksándreia; see also List of traditional Greek place names). Alexander's chief architect for the project was Dinocrates. Ancient accounts are extremely numerous and varied, and much influenced by subsequent developments. One of the more sober descriptions, given by the historian Arrian, tells how Alexander undertook to lay out the city's general plan, but lacking chalk or other means, resorted to sketching it out with grain.
A number of the more fanciful the foundation myths are found in the Alexander Romance and were picked up by medieval Arab historians. The 14th century Arab historian Ibn Khaldun ridiculed one where sea-monsters prevent the foundation, but were thwarted when Alexander descends in a glass box, armed with exact knowledge of their appearance, and goes on to erect metal effigies on the beach which succeed in frightening the monsters away.
Alexandria was intended to supersede Naucratis as a Greek center in Egypt, and to be the link between Greece and the rich Nile Valley. If such a city was to be on the Egyptian coast, there was only one possible site, behind the screen of the Pharos island and removed from the silt thrown out by Nile mouths. An Egyptian townlet, Rhakotis, already existed on the shore and was a resort of fishermen and pirates. Behind it there were five native villages scattered along the strip between Lake Mareotis and the sea, according to a history of Alexander attributed to the author known as Pseudo-Callisthenes.
A few months after the foundation, Alexander left Egypt for the East and never returned to his city. After Alexander departed, his viceroy, Cleomenes, continued the creating and expanding of the city.
The story goes that Homer appeared to Alexander the Great in a Dream and described a City he would build as "An island set in ocean deep, lies off far Egypt's rich and fertile land, and the name of the island called Pharos".
Ptolemaic Era
In a struggle with the other successors to Alexander, his general, Ptolemy (later Ptolemy I of Egypt) succeeded in bringing Alexander's body to Alexandria, where it became a famous tourist destination for ancient travelers (including Julius Caesar).
Though Cleomenes was mainly in charge of seeing to Alexandria's continuous development, the Heptastadion and the main-land quarters seem to have been mainly Ptolemaic work. Inheriting the trade of ruined Tyre and becoming the center of the new commerce between Europe and the Arabian and Indian East, the city grew in less than a generation to be larger than Carthage. In a century, Alexandria had become the largest city in the world and for some centuries more, was second only to Rome. Nominally a free Hellenistic city, Alexandria retained its senate to Roman times and the judicial functions of that body were restored by Septimius Severus after temporary abolition by Augustus.
Alexandria was not only a center of Hellenism but was also home to the largest Jewish community in the world. The Septuagint, a translation of the Hebrew Bible, was produced there. The early Ptolemies kept it in order and fostered the development of its museum into the leading Hellenistic centre of learning (Library of Alexandria) but were careful to maintain the distinction of its population's three largest ethnicites: Greek, Jewish, and Egyptian. From this division arose much of the later turbulence which began to manifest itself under Ptolemy Philopater, who reigned 221–204 BC. The reign of Ptolemy VIII Physcon from 144–116 BC was marked by purges and civil warfare (including the expulsion of Apollodorus) surrounding the intrigues among the king's wives and sons.
One of the earliest well-known inhabitants of Alexandria during the Ptolemaic reign was the geometer and number-theorist Euclid.
Roman annexation
The city passed formally under Roman jurisdiction in 80 BC, according to the will of Ptolemy Alexander but after it had been previously under Roman influence for more than a hundred years. Julius Caesar dallied with Cleopatra in Alexandria in 47 BC, saw Alexander's body (quipping 'I came to see a king, not a collection of corpses' when he was offered a view of the other royal burials) and was mobbed by the rabble. His example was followed by Marc Antony, for whose favor the city paid dearly to Octavian, who placed over it a prefect from the imperial household.
From the time of annexation onwards, Alexandria seems to have regained its old prosperity, commanding, as it did, an important granary of Rome. This fact, doubtless, was one of the chief reasons which induced Augustus to place it directly under imperial power.
In 115 AD Alexandria was destroyed during the Jewish-Greek civil wars which gave Hadrian and his architect, Decriannus, an opportunity to rebuild it.
In 215 AD the emperor Caracalla visited the city and for some insulting satires that the inhabitants had directed at him, abruptly commanded his troops to put to death all youths capable of bearing arms. This brutal order seems to have been carried out even beyond the letter, for a general massacre ensued.
Late Roman and Byzantine period
Even as its main historical importance had formerly sprung from pagan learning, now Alexandria acquired fresh importance as a center of Christian theology and church government. There Arianism was formulated and there also Athanasius, the great opponent of both Arianism and pagan reaction, triumphed over both, establishing the Patriarch of Alexandria as a major influence in Christianity for the next two centuries.
As native influences began to reassert themselves in the Nile valley, Alexandria gradually became an alien city, more and more detached from Egypt and losing much of its commerce as the peace of the empire broke up during the 3rd century AD, followed by a fast decline in population and splendor.
In the late 4th century, persecution of pagans by newly Christian Romans had reached new levels of intensity. Temples and statues were destroyed throughout the Roman empire: pagan rituals became forbidden under punishment of death, and libraries were closed. In 391, Emperor Theodosius I ordered the destruction of all pagan temples, and the Patriarch Theophilus, complied with his request. One theory has it that the great Library of Alexandria and the Serapeum was destroyed about this time. The female mathematician and neoplatonist philosopher Hypatia was a prominent victim of the persecutions.
The Brucheum and Jewish quarters were desolate in the 5th century, and the central monuments, the Soma and Museum, fell into ruin. On the mainland, life seemed to have centered in the vicinity of the Serapeum and Caesareum, both which became Christian churches. The Pharos and Heptastadium quarters, however, remained populous and left intact.
Arab invasion
In 616, it was taken by Khosrau II, King of Persia. Although the Byzantine Emperor Heraclius recovered it a few years later, in 641 the Arabs, under the general Amr ibn al-As during the Muslim conquest of Egypt, captured it decisively after a siege that lasted fourteen months. The city received no aid from Constantinople during that time; Heraclius was dead and the new Emperor Constantine III was barely twelve years old. Notwithstanding the losses that the city had sustained, Amr was able to write to his master, the caliph Omar, that he had taken a city containing "4,000 palaces, 4,000 baths, 12,000 dealers in fresh oil, 12,000 gardeners, 40,000 Jews who pay tribute, 400 theaters or places of amusement." In 645 a Byzantine fleet recaptured the city, but it fell for good the following year.
The library and its contents were destroyed in 642 during the civil war. The Lighthouse was destroyed by earthquakes in the 14th century, and by 1700 the city was just a small town among the ruins.
Modern History
Mohammed Ali, the Ottoman Governor of Egypt, began rebuilding the city around 1810, and by 1850, Alexandria had returned to something like its former glory. In July 1882 the city came under bombardment from British naval forces and was occupied (See Egypt under Muhammad Ali and his successors). In July 1954, the city was a target of an Israeli firebomb campaign. The city was the theater of the famous assassination attempt of president Gamal Abdel Nasser known as the "Manshia Incident".
Mayors of Alexandria (since the implementation of the local-government act of 1960) :
# Siddiq Abdul-Latif (Oct 1960 - Nov 1961)
# Mohammed Hamdi Ashour (Nov 1961 - Oct 1968)
# Ahmad Kamil (Oct 1968 - Nov 1970)
# Mamdouh Salim (Nov 1970 - May 1971)
# Ahmad Fouad Mohyee El-Deen (May 1971 - Sep 1972)
# Abdel-Meneem Wahbi (Sep 1972 - May 1974)
# Abdel-Tawwab Ahmad Hadeeb (May 1974 - Nov 1978)
# Mohammed Fouad Helmi (Nov 1978 - May 1980)
# Naeem Abu-Talib (May 1980 - August 1981)
# Mohammed Saeed El-Mahi (August 1981 - May 1982)
# Mohammed Fawzi Moaaz (May 1982 - Jun 1986)
# Ismail El-Gawsaqi (Jul 1986 - Jul 1997)
# Abdel-Salam El-Mahgoub (1997 - 2006)
# Adel Labib (August 2006 - )
Geography
Layout of the ancient city
The Greek Alexandria was divided into three regions:
;Brucheum
:the Royal or Greek quarter, forming the most magnificent portion of the city. In Roman times Brucheum was enlarged by the addition of an official quarter, making up four regions in all. The city was laid out as a grid of parallel streets, each of which had an attendant subterranean canal;
;The Jews' quarter
:forming the northeast portion of the city;
;Rhakotis
:occupied chiefly by Egyptians (from Coptic Rakotə "Alexandria").
Two main streets, lined with colonnades and said to have been each about 60 metres (200 feet) wide, intersected in the centre of the city, close to the point where the Sema (or Soma) of Alexander (his Mausoleum) rose. This point is very near the present mosque of Nebi Daniel; and the line of the great East–West "Canopic" street only slightly diverged from that of the modern Boulevard de Rosette. Traces of its pavement and canal have been found near the Rosetta Gate, but better remains of streets and canals were exposed in 1899 by German excavators outside the east fortifications, which lie well within the area of the ancient city.
Alexandria consisted originally of little more than the island of Pharos, which was joined to the mainland by a mole nearly a mile long (1260 m) and called the Heptastadion ("seven stadia" — a stadium was a Greek unit of length measuring approximately 180 m). The end of this abutted on the land at the head of the present Grand Square, where rose the "Moon Gate". All that now lies between that point and the modern "Ras Al Teen" quarter is built on the silt which gradually widened and obliterated this mole. The "Ras Al Teen" quarter represents all that is left of the island of Pharos, the site of the actual lighthouse having been weathered away by the sea. On the east of the mole was the Great Harbour, now an open bay; on the west lay the port of Eunostos, with its inner basin Kibotos, now vastly enlarged to form the modern harbour.
In Strabo's time, (latter half of 1st century BC) the principal buildings were as follows, enumerated as they were to be seen from a ship entering the Great Harbour.
#The Royal Palaces, filling the northeast angle of the town and occupying the promontory of Lochias, which shut in the Great Harbour on the east. Lochias (the modern Pharillon) has almost entirely disappeared into the sea, together with the palaces, the "Private Port" and the island of Antirrhodus. There has been a land subsidence here, as throughout the northeast coast of Africa.
#The Great Theatre, on the modern Hospital Hill near the Ramleh station. This was used by Caesar as a fortress, where he withstood a siege from the city mob after the battle of Pharsalus
#The Poseidon, or Temple of the Sea God, close to the Theatre
#The Timonium built by Mark Antony
#The Emporium (Exchange)
#The Apostases (Magazines)
#The Navalia (Docks), lying west of the Timonium, along the sea-front as far as the mole
#Behind the Emporium rose the Great Caesareum, by which stood the two great obelisks, each later known as “Cleopatra's Needle”, and now removed to New York City and London. This temple became in time the Patriarchal Church, some remains of which have been discovered; but the actual Caesareum, so far as not eroded by the waves, lies under the houses lining the new sea-wall.
#The Gymnasium and the Palaestra are both inland, near the Boulevard de Rosette in the eastern half of the town; sites unknown.
#The Temple of Saturn; site unknown.
#The Mausolea of Alexander (Soma) and the Ptolemies in one ring-fence, near the point of intersection of the two main streets
#The Musaeum with its famous Library and theatre in the same region; site unknown.
#The Serapeum, the most famous of all Alexandrian temples. Strabo tells us that this stood in the west of the city; and recent discoveries go far to place it near “Pompey's Pillar” which, however, was an independent monument erected to commemorate Diocletian's siege of the city.
The names of a few other public buildings on the mainland are known, but there is little information as to their position. None, however, are as famous as the building that stood on the eastern point of Pharos island. There, The Great Lighthouse, one of the Seven Wonders of the World, reputed to be 138 meters (450 feet) high, was sited. The first Ptolemy began the project, and the second Ptolemy completed it, at a total cost of 800 talents. It took 12 years to complete and served as a prototype for all later lighthouses in the world. The light was produced by a furnace at the top and was built mostly with solid blocks of limestone. The Pharos lighthouse was destroyed by an earthquake in the 14th century, making it the second longest surviving ancient wonder next to the Great Pyramid of Giza. A temple of Hephaestus also stood on Pharos at the head of the mole.
In the first century, the population of Alexandria contained over 180,000 adult male citizens (from a papyrus dated 32 CE), in addition to a large number of freedmen, women, children and slaves. Estimates of the total population range from 500,000 to over 1,000,000, making it one of the largest cities ever built before the Industrial Revolution and the largest pre-industrial city that was not an imperial capital.
Ancient remains
Very little of the ancient city has survived into the present day. Much of the royal and civic quarters sank beneath the harbour due to earthquake subsidence, and much of the rest has been rebuilt upon in modern times.
"Pompey's Pillar" is the most well-known ancient monument still standing. It is located on Alexandria's ancient acropolis — a modest hill located adjacent to the city's Arab cemetery — and was originally part of a temple colonnade. Including its pedestal it is 30 m (99 feet) high; the shaft is of polished red granite, roughly three meters in diameter at the base, tapering to two and a half meters at the top. The structure was plundered and demolished in the 4th century when a bishop decreed that Paganism must be eradicated. "Pompey's Pillar" is a misnomer, as it has nothing to do with Pompey, having been erected in 293 for Diocletian, possibly in occasion of the rebellion of Domitius Domitianus. Beneath the acropolis itself are the subterranean remains of the Serapeum, where the mysteries of the god Serapis were enacted, and whose carved wall niches are believed to have provided overflow storage space for the ancient Library.
Alexandria's catacombs, known as Kom al Sukkfa, are a short distance southwest of the pillar, consist of a multi-level labyrinth, reached via a large spiral staircase, and featuring dozens of chambers adorned with sculpted pillars, statues, and other syncretic Romano-Egyptian religious symbols, burial niches and sarcophagi, as well as a large Roman-style banquet room, where memorial meals were conducted by relatives of the deceased. The catacombs were long forgotten by the citizens until they were discovered by accident in the 1800s.
The most extensive ancient excavation currently being conducted in Alexandria is known as Kom al Dikka, and it has revealed the ancient city's well-preserved theatre, and the remains of its Roman-era baths.
Antiquities
Persistent efforts have been made to explore the antiquities of Alexandria. Encouragement and help have been given by the local Archaeological Society, and by many individuals, notably Greeks proud of a city which is one of the glories of their national history.
The past and present directors of the museum have been enabled from time to time to carry out systematic excavations when opportunity offered; D. G. Hogarth made tentative researches on behalf of the Egypt Exploration Fund and the Society for the Promotion of Hellenic Studies in 1895; and a German expedition worked for two years (1898–1899). But two difficulties face the would-be excavator in Alexandria.
Since the great and growing modern city stands right over the ancient one, it is almost impossible to find any considerable space in which to dig, except at enormous cost. Also, the general subsidence of the coast has sunk the lower-lying parts of the ancient town under water. This underwater section, containing much of the most interesting sections of the Hellenistic city, including the palace-quarter, is still being extensively investigated by the French underwater archaeologist Franck Goddio and his team and . It raised a noted head of Caesarion. These are even being opened up to tourists, to some controversy .
The spaces however, that are most open are the low grounds to northeast and southwest, where it is practically impossible to get below the Roman strata.
The most important results were those achieved by Dr. G. Botti, late director of the museum, in the neighbourhood of “Pompey's Pillar”, where there is a good deal of open ground. Here substructures of a large building or group of buildings have been exposed, which are perhaps part of the Serapeum. Nearby immense catacombs and columbaria have been opened which may have been appendages of the temple. These contain one very remarkable vault with curious painted reliefs, now lighted by electricity and shown to visitors.
The objects found in these researches are in the museum, the most notable being a great basalt bull, probably once an object of cult in the Serapeum. Other catacombs and tombs have been opened in Kom el-Shuqafa (Roman) and Ras et-Tin (painted).
The German excavation team found remains of a Ptolemaic colonnade and streets in the north-east of the city, but little else. Hogarth explored part of an immense brick structure under the mound of Kom el-Dika, which may have been part of the Paneum, the Mausolea or a Roman fortress.
The making of the new foreshore led to the dredging up of remains of the Patriarchal Church; and the foundations of modern buildings are seldom laid without some objects of antiquity being discovered. The wealth underground is doubtless immense; but, despite all efforts, there is not much for antiquarians to see in Alexandria outside the museum and the neighbourhood of “Pompey's Pillar”. The native tomb-robbers, well-sinkers, dredgers and the like, however, come upon valuable objects from time to time, which find their way into private collections.
Modern city
Blocks
Modern Alexandria is divided into 6 blocks:
There are also two cities under the jurisdiction of the Alexandria governarate:
Neighborhoods
Squares
Bridges
Palaces
Educational institutions
Libraries
The Royal Library of Alexandria in Alexandria, Egypt, was once the largest library in the world. It is generally thought to have been founded at the beginning of the 3rd century BC, during the reign of Ptolemy II of Egypt. It was likely created after his father had built what would become the first part of the Library complex, the temple of the Muses — the Museion, Greek Μουσείον (from which the modern English word museum is derived).
It has been reasonably established that the Library, or parts of the collection, were destroyed by fire on a number of occasions (library fires were common and replacement of handwritten manuscripts was very difficult, expensive and time-consuming). To this day the details of the destruction (or destructions) remain a lively source of controversy. The Bibliotheca Alexandrina was inaugurated in 2003 near the site of the old Library.
Museums
Gardens, Parks and Zoos
Catacombs
Mosques
Synagogues
Alexandria Port
The port is divided into:
Sports
The main sport that interests Alexandrians is soccer, as is the case in all Egypt and Northern Africa. Alexandria was one of three cities that participated in hosting the African Cup of Nations in January 2006, which Egypt won.
Alexandria has four stadiums:
Other less popular sports like tennis and squash are usually played in private social and sports clubs, like:
Sea sports such as surfing, jet-skiing and water polo are practised on a lower scale.
Sightseeing
Demolished Monuments
Existing Monuments
Citadels
Famous Spots
Transportation
Airports
- Alexandria is served by the nearby Al Nozha Airport, located 7 km to the southeast.
- Another airport serves Alexandria named Borg al Arab Airport located about 25 km away from city center. This airport has been in use since about 2003. It was a military airport before that, and till now there is a military section there.
Highways
Train
Extends from "Misr Station"; the main train station in Alexandria, to Abu Qir.
Train stations include:
Tram
An extensive tramway network built in 1860 and is the oldest in Africa. A single ticket costs 25 Egyptian piastres (2007). The tram network is divided into two parts joined in the "Raml Station". Trams working east of the "Raml Station" are painted blue and usually known as "Tram Al-Raml". The ones operating to the west of "Raml station" are painted yellow and is a little smaller with a single tram working on both routes.
Trams are the slowest means of transport in Alexandria but are convenient for short trips, 2-3 stations. If you are a sightseer with time to spare it is the cheapest way to see most of Alexandria.
Taxis
Taxis are a main means of public transportation in Alexandria. Taxis are painted black and yellow. Fare usually starts from 2 Egyptian pounds (2007). All taxis are required by law to have a meter but almost none is actually used since the fares have not changed in a very long time to keep up with inflation. Exactly what amount to charge a taxi is not exactly known and is left to the customers to estimate how much the trip is worth (like all other cities in Egypt, including Cairo) but most Alexandrians who use taxis usually know from experience what every trip costs. This creates a problem for travelers and tourists who are usually over-billed for their trips. Tourists are always advised to ask for how much they should pay for a taxi before hailing one.
Other means of public transportation
- Buses and Minibuses.
Culture of Alexandria
Accent
Alexandrians speak the same language Egyptian Arabic as in Cairo and elsewhere in Egypt, yet have some expressions related only to them. Most of these expressions are out-dated or used only by older generations. As new generations in Alexandria never use them, and if ever used, then only to joke around or to make fun of a specific situation. Yet, you can find many locals still use them in their daily life. Still, Alexandrian accent is highly recognizable among Egyptians and a person from Alexandria is almost immediately recognized from his accent and the subtle differences in the terminology and emphasis on certain parts of the words. Following are some examples of the these little differences.
The word "Iskindireyya"
This is a list of all words related to the word "Alexandria" in Arabic:
Writings about Alexandria
Novels
History
Memoir
Songs about Alexandria
Alexandria as a summer resort
Alexandria is considered a main summer resort in the Middle East, visited by people from all the other cities to enjoy the sun and sea there. Beaches become full of umbrellas and families and the city is usually crowded in summer.
Beaches of Alexandria are famous of having lots of cafeterias and umbrellas. There are both public beaches (which anyone can use for free, and are usually crowded) and private beaches (which can be used upon paying a small fee). There are also private beaches that are dedicated only to the guests of some hotels.
Shopping in Alexandria
Shopping malls in Alexandria:
Born in Alexandria
Photography gallery
Image:Panorama Alexandria.JPG|A panoramic view of modern Alexandria
Image:Alexandria 12-9-2005 3.JPG|Alexandria at night
Image:Image-DSC00289.JPG|Modern Alexandria, from "Citadel of Qaitbay"
Image:Alexandria 2122972.jpg|Skyline from the corniche
Image:Alexandria 2122988.jpg|Planetarium beside Bibliotheca Alexandrina
Image:Alexandia 2122995.jpg|Bibliotheca Alexandrina
Image:Alexandria 2123021.jpg|Alexandria beach
Image:Alexandria 2123028.jpg|Citadel of Qaitbay
Image:Alexandria 2123097.jpg|Saad Zaghloul street in downtown Alexandria
Image:Alexandria 2133187.jpg|Crossroad of Saad Zaghloul and Safeya Zaghloul streets at sunset
References
See also
External links
Official website
Read more about Alexandria
3D Alexandria
